A lot of Americans in Baghdad now are desperately reviewing their personal security, especially after Sunday’s attacks on the al Rashid Hotel and Monday’s half-hour rampage of six suicide car bombings around the city. If even Paul Wolfowitz isn’t safe (his room was only one floor away from taking a direct hit from a rocket), then who is? Here’s a primer for those who really must go.
GETTING THERE
If you don’t have a military flight, or a seat on a military convoy, then there are four main ways in to Iraq, all of them bad.
You can drive up from Kuwait, the safest route. There are downsides, though. For one, you need a visa from Kuwait, which is hard to get. Then you need permission to cross the border from Kuwait’s Ministry of Interior, which is even harder to get. If you have a car you can take into Iraq, fine; otherwise you’ll have to walk across the border at Safwan, where mobs will greet you as you try to fight your way into a car-for-hire waiting for you on the Iraqi side. Sometimes they stone travelers. After that, the road is relatively safe, although armed highway robbery happens fairly often, several times a week. Lie down on the back seat or, if you’re a woman, put on a chador so no one knows you’re American...
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