Back to BaghdadTwo years after leaving the capital, a reporter returns to a ghost town.
By Ayub Nuri in Baghdad (ICR No. 172, 13-Apr-06)
The first time I saw my country's capital was in April 2003, ten days after the war. I went to Baghdad as a reporter and fixer, and for the first time I met Arabs from every province of the country. As a Kurd from Halabja, I was as much a novelty to them as they were to me.
Everybody was trying to find a job with the US army, foreign companies or news agencies. English-language courses started to open in Baghdad. The economy was booming, and I remember people saying, "Iraq is becoming the 51st American state." I shared the dream of many that democracy would come to Iraq, that we were starting a better life.
After the war I travelled to the mass graves in Hilla province. Families were digging and finding the bones of their loved ones. I was sad to see that – yet happy at the same time, telling myself these would be the last mass graves in Iraq, and everyone would now live in peace. I was a strong supporter of the war, and did not like it when anti-war protesters in other countries took to the streets.
But then I saw with my own eyes American Humvees driving over peoples' cars in Baghdad. I saw with my own eyes American soldiers firing at a building where only civilians lived.
The hopes I shared with so many other Iraqis slowly dimmed as I travelled throughout the country and witnessed growing violence.
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