Guardian UK: In this recession, we want comfort culture to go with our comfort food

[marmar]

In this recession, we want comfort culture to go with our comfort food
From Billy Elliot to JK Galbraith, our taste in a downturn satisfies one of two appetites: escape or understanding

Jonathan Freedland
The Guardian, Wednesday December 3 2008


Man cannot live by bread alone - he also needs some shepherd's pie and a dollop of rice pudding. That, at least, is the word from Tesco, reporting an extraordinary surge in sales of comfort food. As we feel the first chill of the recession, and as American economists declare that the downturn in the United States began a full year ago, making the current slump already longer than the average recession since the second world war, the supermarket chain has noticed a run on its cosiest products.

Sales of lamb hotpot are up 615% on this time last year, while beef casserole and dumplings have leapt by 279%. Deep-filled pies are selling at more than double the usual rate, as is cheesecake. Hot cakes are selling like hot cakes.

Could that be down to the wintry weather rather than the frozen economy? No. Tesco saw the boom in reassuring ready meals and cosy grub during the period from May to October. This isn't about staying warm, says the store, along with other retailers who've noticed a similar pattern on their shelves. It's about Britons cheering themselves up, padding their tummies as they tighten their belts. And notice the dishes in demand: traditional British fare, as if we're fleeing scary global economic forces, seeking refuge in the familiar smells of mum's kitchen and school dinners.

So much for what we're putting into our stomachs as the economy plunges downward, with most forecasters expecting the thud to come once the fleeting lift of Christmas is over. What will happen to our other appetites, those located not in our mouths but between our ears? What is the brainfood we'll be seeking out as times get tougher? Put simply, what's likely to be the culture of this recession?

Not so different from the food, as it happens. While Waitrose reports an 80% increase in sales of loaf cakes, ITV is cheering a rise in the television equivalent: viewing figures for I'm A Celebrity are up on last year. The X Factor and Strictly Come Dancing are doing a roaring trade too. And what has just become Britain's fastest-ever selling DVD? Mamma Mia!. ......(more)

The complete piece is at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2008/dec/03/comment-credit-crunch-food-culture

[T_i_B]

1. What about those whose tastes have remained the same through all this?

Strictly Come Dancing and the X Factor were popular before Northern Rock went bust!

Freedland is a brilliant writer, but this article is essentially just a load of generalizations.