DHAHIR, Iraq -- The looting of Iraq's ancient ruins is thriving again. This time it is not a result of the "stuff happens" chaos that followed the U.S. invasion in 2003 but rather the bureaucratic indifference of Iraq's newly sovereign government.
Thousands of archaeological sites -- containing some of the oldest treasures of civilization -- have been left unprotected, allowing what officials of Iraq's antiquities board say is a resumption of brazenly illegal excavations, especially here in southern Iraq.
A new antiquities police force, created in 2008 to replace withdrawing U.S. troops, was supposed to have more than 5,000 officers by now. It has 106, enough to protect their headquarters in an Ottoman-era mansion on the eastern bank of the Tigris River in Baghdad and not much else.
"I am sitting behind my desk and I am protecting the sites," the force's commander, Brig. Gen. Najim Abdullah al-Khazali, said with exasperation. "With what? Words?"
The failure to staff and use the force -- and the consequent looting -- reflects a broader weakness in Iraq's institutions of state and law as the U.S. military steadily withdraws, leaving behind an uncertain legacy.
Many of Iraq's ministries remain feeble, hampered by corruption, the uncertain divisions of power and resources and the political paralysis that has consumed the government before and after this year's election.
In the case of Iraq's ancient ruins, the cost has been the uncountable loss of artifacts from the civilizations of Mesopotamia, a history that Iraq's leaders often evoke as part of the country's once and future greatness -- the latter anticipating archaeological research and tourism.
"The people who make these decisions, they talk so much about history in their speeches and conferences," said the director of the State Board of Antiquities and Heritage, Qais Hussein Rashid, referring to the plight of the new police force, "but they do nothing."
Here, the looting is evident in the shattered bits of civilization -- pieces of pottery, glass and carved stone -- strewn across an expanse of desert that was once a Sumerian trading town known as Dubrum.
The bowls, vases and other pieces are destroyed and discarded by looters who seek gold, jewelry and cuneiform tablets or cylinders that are easy to smuggle and resell, according to Abdulamir al-Hamdani, a former antiquities inspector in Dhi Qar province. The nearest city, Farj, is notorious for a black market in looted antiquities, he said.
"For me, for you, it is all priceless," he said, "but for them it is useless if they can't sell it in the market."
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