Times
From Charles Bremner in Paris
IN A gesture likely to bring an apoplectic flush to the face of any dedicated claret drinker, French wine growers have proposed a desperate plan to prop up their slumping industry against New World competition by handing thousands of barrels to industrial distillers.
It is the first time that grand wines protected by the Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) label have been treated in such a way. And as is usually the case with French agriculture, the vignerons are counting on their Government and Brussels to foot much of the bill for mopping up a wine lake of eminently drinkable if unfashionable quality.
The plan to distil more than 266 million bottles of Appellation d’origine contrôlée wine, to become ethanol for vehicles or other products, conjures up the bizarre concept of European drivers filling their tanks with 2004 Bordeaux — and other vintages.
It is a symptom of the plight of growers in Bordeaux, Burgundy and other traditional wine regions as they face their worst crisis since the phylloxera disease killed many of the country’s vines a century ago. The world’s drinkers are turning away from complicated and uneven French AOC wines which bear the names of obscure châteaux in favour of simply and memorably branded tipples from the New World. At the same time the domestic market is shrinking as the French heed medical advice and the threat of the breathalyser and cut down on their consumption.
The ploy by the growers’ and merchants’ organisations would have been unthinkable when AOC labels ruled the world market for medium to higher-quality wines. The EU millions that were spent in recent decades ending the wine lakes applied in France to the humble vin de table and vin de pays, not to the grander AOC labels. Only Champagne and the highest-quality Bordeaux, Burgundies and Loire wines are untouched by the worst slump since the early 20th century.
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,3-1458297,00.html