Speaker wire question

[Champion Jack]

I have the walls torn up in my Liv room, so, I thought now would be the time to run the speaker wire for the surround system.
This time I want to do it right --up the walls, through the attic space and back down- part way to the speakers.
In my old house I had big gauge wire(not monster, but, almost as big) but alas, it went with the house.
My question is what do I need?
My system is a decent mid range system, I use it for all A/V (Video and music.

[darkstar]

1. Good question.

I can't give you a definitve answer. I've had this discussion many times over with sound geeks, both home stereo and studio types. Over short runs, *most* agree the payoff of monster vs cheapie is minimal. It seems the opinion is split on longer runs, the increased accumualted proximity to AC lines and fields as hum inducing culprit viewed as the problem--as opposed to signal loss via run length--with the cheaper stuff.

Now my less-than-perfectly-formed opinion. Use the cheaper stuff and try not to route near ac lines. Cross perpincularly where you must pass. And avoid letting it pool up near the components AC cables in the back.

Wish I was there to help and give a test drive. Love geeking on that stuff!

:toast:

[Champion Jack]

3. Thanks for all the info

Really great advice!
I'm going to order 250 ft of - HIGH STRAND 14/2 CL-3 IN-WALL SPEAKER WIRE and stay far away from any AC lines.. I'll put the money I saved into a better center front speaker so I can move my current CF to be the rear center and finally use 6-1.

[lanparty]

5. Monster on the cheap!!!!

Use twisted pair CAT-5 ethernet cable. The bonus is you can run 4 different channels over each wire.

Basically, the twist gives it it's amazing resistance to inteference. The twist effectively causes external EM interference to cancel itself out.

But if you want to break the bank with Monster ... It's YOUR wallet!!!!

[Don_G]

2. Run 12-Gauge Zip Cord

For the audio.

As for the rest, it depends on what you want to do and where you will locate your systems.

As an old Telephone I/R, I suggest you visualize everything you can first and run the wire accordingly. 12-Gauge Zip Cord for the audio, one or two runs of coax for the cable TV and a future modem and possibly Cat-5 or 6 cable for the phone line/DSL service.

The AC should be shielded either by conduit or BX cable and electrically grounded by tying the power company's Service Wire to your Water Company's ground.

If you have to relocate some components, use a router to mill the back of the baseboard molding and run the wiring through the cavity.

[Champion Jack]

4. Thanks Don

Tha's exactly what I'm trying to do, run everything I might need down the road. Great tip about the router/baseboard.
This house was built in 1884, and as you can imagine has a few surprises.

[theivoryqueen]

6. that IS a good tip

for a variety of applications. Plus, looks good! Yay, guys with good taste and skills...