Car question - mechanics check in please

[radfringe]

Yesterday afternoon as I was trying to leave work, my car wouldn't start.

Just had a new battery put into the car this past January. Had to have the car jumped started, (no, didn't leave lights on or anything like that during the day).

Commute home is about 1/2 hr ride - got home, turned off the car and tried to start it again. Nada

called my mechanic, he sent over his assistant, jumped the car again then drove it to the garage. at the garage, turned off the car, tried to start it again. Nada.

They put some sort of do-hicky on it to check the alternator, it said the alternator was fine. Mechanic hooked it up to a battery charger.

It's possible the battery went bad. Sooooo, other than the battery or alternator - what else could be the problem?

[mmm]

1. Could be a short in the starter

[E_Zapata]

2. Does it sound like it wants to turn over?

When you try to start it, is it just flat dead, or does the car try to turn over and start?

If it's flat dead - no doubt the alternator.

If it is trying to start - maybe the starter.

But your mechanic woulda told you that.

I just had my alternator replaced. $400, including the tow. Ouch.

I was just looking on ebay - and some guy is selling an alternator for 1/4 the cost. Wish I had looked there.

[radfringe]

4. don't think it's the starter

have had those go before on other cars and there is usually a series of clicking sounds when you turn the key - this is just nothing

OUCHIE $400 for alternator.... gulp, my car is '98 Kia Sephia, about 85,000 miles on it, and 3 payments left to go

[electricmonk]

3. Fusible link maybe

Had that short out on a car once and it behaved like yours.

[Trajan]

5. Ah ..... the Gordian Knot ....

What comes first ? ... the charger or the charged ? .....

Battery/Alternator problems can be a real PITA .....

HOW many times have I thought it was the ..... but it was actually the ......

ehem ....

DO you have a charge/discharge gauge ? .... what did IT say while you drove about ? ..... did it show a charge ? ....

What was the voltage reading when its running ? .... it should be at LEAST 13.5 volts ....

Sometimes: ... this is a bad cable ..... make SURE they verify the integrity of the hook up .... when it DOESNT start> .. go out and jerk the cables around .... try to spin the battery cable attachments at the battery posts, and make it dig in ..... THEN try starting again ....

Good luck ....

[radfringe]

9. battery cables are on tight

and no visible corrosion

tried all that yesterday when it first wouldn't start

what ever it is I hope it's not expensive... I need new tires and my front brakes replaced... groan...wallet is taking a hit as it is

[REP]

6. Starter

[classics]

7. Corrosion on the battery terminals.

Next time it wont start, wack the terminals with a wrench or wiggle them a bit, then see if it starts.

[FireHeart]

8. Corroded battery/starter motor cables.

Check the terminals. If they show a lot of corrosion, replace them. You MIGHT try using baking soda to clean (but remember to remove them so the terminals themselves can be cleaned) and coating them with a bit of vasoline.

[Lexingtonian]

10. probably wiring stuff

It sounds mostly like some kind of corrosion or disconnection that keeps the alternator from recharging the battery. The battery terminals are usually where such things most usually go bad, but I once had to trace back an ignition problem to a corroded grounding pin for an injector controller. Otherwise, there's some kind of electrical current drain you don't know about- a short in something, interior lights on, electrical heating that doesn't shut off when it should maybe.

You or a mechanic should be able to figure it out pretty easily with a VOM and a bunch of screwdrivers. Btw, check all the fuses in all the fuseboxes just in case.

[punpirate]

11. Requires a bit more information on symptoms....

When you turn the key to start, do you hear anything at all?

If nothing at all, this is very likely a wiring problem to the solenoid circuit (either a bad start relay, wiring in between, etc.), provided that the voltmeter needle doesn't drop.

If there's no sound at all, and the voltmeter drops suddenly, it's likely a sign of a very weak battery.

If it clicks once, and you see the voltmeter drop quickly, this means that the starter solenoid circuit is working, and the problem is likely in the starter itself.

If it clicks once, but the voltmeter doesn't drop quickly, it means the start circuit is okay, but that there may be a wiring fault between the solenoid and the starter, even if the solenoid is mounted on the starter. Normally, during starting, it should click once, the engine should begin to turn over, and voltage should drop to between 9 and 11 volts.

If it clicks repeatedly, this likely means that the start circuit is working properly, but that the battery does not have sufficient power to keep the start solenoid engaged.

Last, it is possible that the battery is bad, especially if, in the past, it was completely discharged at least once. An internal short in the battery can drain it in a fairly short amount of time.

If, when the engine is running, the voltmeter is showing a charge (13.5-14.2 volts), but the battery continues to discharge, have the battery tested, and if it passes what's called a load test, have the battery to alternator connections checked carefully.

Also, it's rather easy to check for corrosion at the battery, but corrosion at the body ground to the battery is not so obvious, nor is corrosion from the body to the engine through the engine ground strap obvious, but corrosion on the ground side of the circuit can cause problems, as well.

Cheers.

[radfringe]

12. mechanic called

Thanks for all your input

mechanic called - says it's the battery, but can't get another one until tomorrow...

battery is still under warranty, so that saves me money..