Auto Repair question

[GURUving]

My old Aspire needs rear brake shoes. I have the shoes, but haven't put rear brakes on in forever, and don't want to take apart a lot of unnecessary stuff if I don't have to. After putting on my muffler, I just sat and stared at the brake assembly for quite some time.

Any simple instructions on how best to get the drum off?

[even]

1. In general.

I think you need a wheel puller. I think Autozone lends it. If you need new shoes the drums need to be turned true.

[Don_G]

2. Beat The Sucker

There's probably some rust that will make removal difficult. Knock the drum around a little and don't use any oil product like WD-40 around your brakes.

Coke dissolves the rust and can be washed off with water.

Oh, I also suggest you take a picture of the brake assembly before you put the new shoes on. There's a few springs that need to be replaced exactly and I don't like to take many chances with something as important as the braking system on your car.

[tridim]

3. I hate replacing brake shoes

Pads are a no brainer, I can replace 2 axles in about 30 minutes. In the past I've spent an hour per wheel on brake shoes. Those stiff springs are not easy to work with.

Just beat on the back rim of the drum to get them off. Sometimes it helps to pump the brake pedal gently a few times. Also, make sure the parking brake is off.

[rwenos]

4. Another Tip: One Side at a Time

A good tip I learned early on was to do one side at at time. Jack up both sides (after blocking, obviously), and then do one side, BEFORE you open up the other side.

That way you can "consult" the other side, which will still be configured in working condition, if you have trouble reassembling the side you've torn down.

This has saved my a** several times, when working on unfamiliar vehicles.

:D

[Xithras]

5. Buy a book

Seriously, if you aren't familiar with the details of your cars mechanics, you really should have a decent repair guide handy before tackling any major repairs. With brakes especially, it's easy to get a spring in backwards or a clip on wrong and end up with brakes that LOOK right, but come loose and fail within the first few miles. Repair books aren't that expensive, and they're worth every penney to a doityerselfer.

[GURUving]

6. Thanks all!

I'll pound on those suckers until they give up the rusty ghost! I was just concerned that if I did that, I would wreck something. I do have a long history of overtightening bolts to the point they twist off and cause me another half day with a tap and dye set.

I put the front pads on a few weeks ago, and was hoping I'd never have to look at the rear ones. Oh well, time to take out the old aggressive impulses on some uncooperative pieces of metal!

[Don_G]

7. Let The Tools Do The Work

That's what they're ther for. Also use Coke to help with the rust and I strongly recommend Anti-Sieze on any screws and studs when you're puttting the thing back together.

Anti-Sieze compound cuts back on corrosion if you need to get back into it in the future as well as giving you an accurate torque reading in critical areas.

I like to make life easier for me in the long run.

[BlueJazz]

8. I might want to add that....

....there are brake tools made especialy for putting on springs (and of course, taking them off)
There not very expensive and can save a lot of %#^*&*@$# !!