My #(%*&%(*# car died, how can I get another without good credit?

[liberalhistorian]

GRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!! I am REALLY starting to hate cars, I have very little luck with them. I have an '88 Chevy Cavalier I bought outright in February of 2002 after the engine in my 1993 Dodge Spirit went out and I'd gotten the Spirit from my parents because the 1993 Ford Escort I had before that went out on me after I put more than I paid for into it in repairs and maintenance.

The Cavalier was great, it only had 80,000 original miles when I bought it and I bought it from the first owner, who'd taken really good care of it. I took good care of it as well, and it didn't give me any trouble. Until this spring, when I had to put almost a thousand bucks into it for new brakes and fuel injector. Then it went out on me last month, and it needed a new fuel pump and fuel pump sending unit to the tune of almost 800 bucks; I managed to make a payment arrangement with the shop because my parents and I have gone there forever and they knew they could trust me. I still have almost 400 bucks to go.

NOW it went out on me again Friday night on my way to Cleveland to take a bus to the march in D.C.; my parents had to come get my son and I and take us to Cleveland and pick us up at 3 in the morning on Sunday when we returned. I thought it was the transmission, but the shop said no, they thought it was just something minor. Whew, I dodged that bullet, I thought. Well, I just talked to them now and they've changed their tune. It's making "lower engine noises" that don't sound good, and it doesn't look good. Well, hell, of course not, whenever you hear a mechanic say "lower engine noises", you might as well add the sound of a cash register or a tow truck taking the car to a junkyard. I told them that if it was more than a hundred bucks (which I'm sure it will be!), to just fucking forget it, I ain't putting one more dime into it, it ain't worth it. The problem is, I don't have much savings (when you're a single parent, money seems to just disappear, lol!), I only make $26,000 a year, and, due to a job loss a few years ago and the fact that it took almost a year to find another job, my credit isn't good.

So, does anyone have any advice on how I can get a decent car without much money or credit?

[GOPisEvil]

1. Not without getting screwed on interest.

I have a bankruptcy in my past (about 5 years ago), and even 1 or 2 years in, I could have gotten financing on a car, but the interest rate was damn near indentured servitude.

[bearfan454]

6. Ready for some deer hard salami GopisEvil ?

Opening day is Saturday.

[GOPisEvil]

9. Yum!

Just let me maintain my meat-eaters cognitive dissonance, ok? :D

[CO Liberal]

2. Many Dealerships Offer Special Financing Programs

Check around. But watch the interest rate - some can be as high as 21 percent.

I have shaky credit, and my local Chevy dealer was able to get financing for me on a 2002 S-10.

[liberalhistorian]

11. I realize that, with my credit,

I'm going to have to put up with high interest rates no matter what, I'm just hoping that I can find a place that will be at least somewhat fair to me. It pisses me off, because I was finally starting to dig myself out from under things financially.

[ugarte]

14. Any chance of putting the car in your parents' name

Use their credit and make payments to them.

[liberalhistorian]

23. Unfortunately, their credit isn't much better,

they retired and their income went down but their bills didn't, so that's not an option.

[radwriter0555]

21. Well go for the longest term payment you can, like 5 years, then

after a good history of 2 years payments REFINANCE it with a real bank.

You should end up much better off.

And do the research on edmunds.com BEFORE you buy the pretty sparkly car the dealer wants to sell you.

Check edmunds and make a list of cars taht you can afford, THEN go shopping. Buy something far newer that might cost a little more. Well worth it not having the payments on the mechanic.

[liberalhistorian]

24. That's a good idea,

to refinance it with a real bank later, I hadn't thought of that. And you're right, it's better to get a newer car that costs more than to pay for the damn repairs all the time.

[radwriter0555]

25. Oh yeah, WAY better off in the long run. But promise you'll do

your shopping? Decide what car to buy before you buy it. Get some ideas and then go off.

And if you really really really get stuck and need a co-signer, email me and maybe we can work something out.

When I was a pup a nice fella helped me out and co-signed, so if I can pass the kharma along... well just let me know.

[liberalhistorian]

32. Thanks, Rad,

I appreciate it!

[ugarte]

3. Find someone who knows about cars

and go with them to look at used cars. You can always find a bargain, but you need someone who knows what to look for: typically, a one-owner older car that has been garaged and maintained. A 10 year old good car can be had for less than $5000.

Good luck.

[NashVegas]

4. Anything But Cavaliers!

That car does not age well.

[geniph]

27. Have to agree with Crisco

The only car I've ever not kept for the long term was the 99 Cavalier I bought in a hurry when my Saturn was totaled. What a mistake that car was - it lost so much value in two years that I could barely trade it, let alone sell it. The steering was already going. I was so freaking glad to get rid of that car and get my Subaru!

Cars are the main thing that is easily bought on credit even when your credit is screwed, but they will hose you big-time on the rates. Refinance as soon as you possibly can. Never miss a payment. Pay extra in the first few months if there's any way at all to do so (will cut your interest a lot if you pay down principal during the most heavily amortized period).

And do some serious research to pick a car that'll be reliable over the long term, or else buy one that will be cheap to work on. Some cars have very little go wrong with them, but when they do, it's $5000. Others may have lots of irritating little problems, but it costs $100 to fix most of them (that's the way my Chevy LUV pickup was - bought that car new in 1980, kept it for 22 years, and probably didn't put more than $600 into it in repairs in all that time).

[donotpassgo]

29. Ive been driving an 84 Cavalier...still gets me around ok

[bearfan454]

5. What I did was go to Leif Johnson Ford in Austin Tx on New Years Eve

They have to pay taxes on the car the next day. My wife and I let some credit cards go. If they don't give you the loan, they don't get any money. On top of that they have to pay taxes on the car the next day as part of their inventory. I got a brand new 2000 F 150 pickup for 12,999. Not bad, huh ?

[MSchreader]

7. Auto auctions

A lot of the people I work with go to auto auctions to find a car. Low prices and decent vehicles.

Martin

[bearfan454]

8. I've heard of that too.

This guy at work did that.

[GOPisEvil]

10. Ya gotta have cash for that, though.

Not as much cash as retail, but cash, actual greenbacks.

[liberalhistorian]

12. Do you have to pay for it all at once at

auctions? I've never been to one, how do they work and where do you find them?

[GOPisEvil]

13. Try these guys

http://www.copart.com/

I just googled them, so I have no clue about them. They have a location in Columbus.

I believe you have to have cash up front and you bid against folks, mostly dealers for each car.

[Flying_Pig]

16. Auctions are only good if you are VERY mechanically inclined.

As you seldom are able to give the cars anything more than a quick inspection during the auction process (usually done during a prescribed period before the auction starts), it takes a real pro to spot a good car, from one that's trouble. Actually, with a few exceptions, I've found most cheap auction cars to be just that; cheap auction cars, that most likely will suck your wallet dry, unless you know how to repair them cheaply.

Buyer beware.

[Flying_Pig]

15. Your problems have been exacerbated by the fact, that in every case

you have picked cars that are known as "100,000 mile specials". These are cars known among mechanics, as not having long lives. They were built cheap, to sell cheap, and where durability was sacrificed to creat "disposable" cars.

In the future, if you are going to buy low priced cars, stay away from most American makes and models, and look into trying to find something made by Toyota, Nissan, Volkswagen, Subaru, Volvo, or even Mercedes.

Those cars, even buying one with 125,000 miles on it, will have significantly longer mechanical lifespan than an equivilent priced American car.

Because Toyotas, Nissans, and Subarus, hold their re-sale values much better than American cars (btw, almost all Toyotas and Nissans are now built in the U.S.), you'll pay a higher price for one on the used market, but it's usually worth it.

The real finds in used cars though, are what I call the "ugly ducks". They are the "non-sexy" type of automobiles, that have lower re-sale values because they arent't "sexy", but are nonetheless, great cars. Used Volvos are a perfect example of this. Look for used 240 and 760 models. They are safe, built like tanks, get OK gas mileage, last forever, and they really aren't that un-sexy.

Another one, would be a used Mercedes. Look for used 190, 300D, or 240D models. They last forever, look great, and are pretty easy to work on. One of my cars is a 1976 Mercedes 240D. It runs like a champ, with over 200,000 miles on it, looks great, and I get 25mpg on diesel, which is priced 35 cents a gallon less than unleaded gas here.

Last, but not least, whatever car you buy, get a repair manual at your local Checker or Kragens, and try to maintain it yourself, and do it well. It'll save you lots of money in the long run. Also, go to www.cars.com , and browse throuh "Click & Clacks" part of the website They've got a list of dependable used cars there, and tons of great information on various makes and models, as well as owner comments and feedback.

Good luck!

[geniph]

28. That's good advice!

I've seen little old Toyota, Subaru, and Honda wagons still trucking along with 300,000 miles on them - they start every time you turn the key. They might be a little persnickety, but they never leave you stranded, and they hold their value really well. My Cavalier absolutely PLUMMETED in value in two years - I was staggered by how little it was worth.

New cars lose about 20% of their value just driving off the lot, too, so sometimes a really good way to find a well-maintained, newer model used car is to buy one from one of the big rental chains like Hertz or Avis. They generally sell them at one year, and they've been very carefully maintained. That way, you don't absorb that first-year depreciation.

[bleedingheart]

31. good advice

my bro-in-law bought a used volvo seven years ago and its still running like a charm. Looks like a refrigerator on wheels but its safe and reliable.

He also has his late-sister's BMW..runs like a charm and its almost 20 years old.

My sister's toyota has over 200k miles on it...

I have a newer toyota and its doing okay

..and the exception to the rule (knocking on wood) is my Ford Escort 1995... still running at 122k miles...

[SOteric]

17. Private transactions through the want ads.

A couple of caveats if you opt for this:

If you've found a car or two you're interested in, subscribe to one of those online services where you can search the VIN and find out the history of the car before you purchase.

Line up the services of a trusted mechanic or service station and ask them for a time to bring the car by, then arrange with the seller to have him or her bring the car down to the mechanic for inspection (at your expense). Purchase only if approved by the mechanic.

Make your transactions by check, not cash, and keep copies of the information of the seller in the event that you need to contact him/her regarding the paperwork of the transaction, etc.

As soon as you purchase a used vehicle, have it throughly serviced, weatherised, have the tires rotated, - the full treatment. Not only will you have a heads up on any potential problems with the car, you'll have a jump on keeping it well-maintained.

[Lydia Leftcoast]

18. When I was a semi-employed college instructor

worried that my vehicle would die on me any minute (it didn't), a colleague told me that he always bought clunkers for a couple of hundred dollars, ran the thing until it needed repairs that were more than he'd paid, then scrapped it and bought another clunker.

If your car doesn't have to be pretty, it's worth a try.

[HFishbine]

19. Advice

1) Determine your budget for transportation. $50/month? $100/month?

2) Evaluate the actual cost of repair vs. buying another car vs. your monthly budget. Ask the mechanic to help you estimate how much more life you'll have in your car after repairs and what additional costs you may have in the near future to keep the car running (Other repairs, tune ups, oil changes, tires, etc.) Then compare the repair costs and expected additional maintenace costs to the expected remaining life of the car. $600 for another year of operation may be well worth it.

3) If the repair costs are too great, look for a private seller who will finance. If someone is unloading a car the family doesn't need, he probably won't be needing the money to go towards another car and while many sellers don't think of this as an option, some will consider financing a car for you privately. You'll get some no's, but I recently did get a private seller to finance a car for me and it worked out quite well. Here are the things you'll want to offer to make the deal as appealing as possible to the seller:

a) A written agreement. Assure the seller everything will be specified in writing and signatures will be notarized.

b) Meet his asking price. (Or come close to it.)

c) Make the terms as favorable to the seller as you can without gettin in over your head. Be realistic, but offer to pay an enticing interest rate (5% would be more than he's getting in most investments, but be prepared to go higher), and pay it off as quickly as you can.

d) Put him on the title as a lien holder.

e) Have the written agreement require you to keep comprehensive and collission insurance on the vehicle. This will be mandatory of any thinking seller as it protects his collateral (which you will be driving) from loss.

f) Offer a substantial down payment. Again, as much as you can afford without getting in over your head. I would guess that a 20% to 50% down payment would be reasonable. The more you offer up front, the better your chances of getting the seller to say yes to financing.

g) Offer references. You may have bad credit, but surely you have some people who can vouche for you. Your boss? Landlord?

Don't be afraid to offer this proposal to a seller, but wait until you're certain you've found a car you want. After you've met the seller, test driven the car and shown some intererst, he'll be more inclined to give your offer some consideration than if you called ahead of time and asked.

4)Research. Use the Internet to research any vehicle you are considering. The last thing you need is another crappy car. Some older cars hold up quite well. Find out which models last and stay away from those that are known to have frequent repair problems.

5) Mantain your next car. Older cars need care. Don't put off oil changes. Either learn for yourself or find a gas station that offers full service on a fill-up to check oil, break fluid, transmission fluid, belts and hoses.

Good luck!

[HFishbine]

20. PS

Shop around for another mechanic. Maybe the one you have is great and perfectly in line with repair costs for your community, but $800 for a fuel pump sounds very excessive. One way to guage this is to ask how much of the cost is parts. When you know, call a retail parts shop, like Auto Zone or Pep Boys, and ask them what they sell the parts for. (You should be able to get the parts list of the written estimate, which you certainly should have.)

Is your mechanic charging you $400 for a $200 part? Is he charging you $600 in labor for a three hour job?

Also, are there any community collges in your area? Most offer auto classes, it could be worth a call to the instructor to say, "My car needs a fuel pump, if I provide the parts, would your class be interested in doing the installation?" You might sweeten the deal by asking if there is some tool or supplies in the $50 range that you could donate to the class as a token of your gratitude.

[tridim]

22. The last time I lost my job

I had a large monthly payment on a brand new Acura Integra. I sold it the day after I was laid off and bought a rough, 1993 Nissan NX2000 for $1900. Still have it 3 years later. If you get a good Japanese car you'll be much better off (sorry to say, but it's a fact), especially on the cheap end.

[Art_from_Ark]

26. Japanese cars are excellent

I've got a 16-year-old Toyota Camry and it still purrs. In the seven years I've had it, the only repair I've had to make is for the heater fan.

It's too bad I can't send you a car. Most cars here in Japan are junked long before their useful life has ended, so you can pick up a scrapped but still very drivable car for next to nothing.

[MadHound]

30. First off, go get a second opinion

I know, I know, you've gone to these mechanics forever, but with the vague mumblings about "lower engine noises" it sounds like their trying to squeeze some extra cash out of you. Don't fall for it, find somebody else you trust and take the car to them for a second opinion.

That said, Caveliers generally suck for the long haul. If you wish to get a decent car for a good price that will last forever, think foreign makes. Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, Honda. And if you wish to get a better bargain, look for the foreign cars in US trim. I have an '87 Chevy Nova that still purrs along at 200,000 miles. But in reality it is a Toyota Camry, just with the Chevy name. Lots of automakers did this in the '80s, and the cars were not only cheaper than the cars with foreign name, they ran and lasted just as well.

If you can afford to come up with the cash all at once, or have a bank lend you the cash up front, you have a few options.
Find a good friend who is mechanically minded, then look in the local paper for two classifications: One is obvious, Cars for Sale. In these times of high gas prices and economic downturn, people are unloading their vehicles. You can take your mechanic friend with you to inspect the car, and most people are willing to dicker on the price. Second is look the estate auction ads. Most estate auctions are of older peoples stuff. Generally they have a late model car with low mileage. Most auctions have the merchandise open for public viewing/inspection either hours or the day before the actual bidding. Take your mechanic friend with you on this also. Best bet for lowest possible price is to find the auctions that are outdoors, and held on a rainy/bad weather day. Lower turnout, fewer bids, lower price.

Before you buy a used car, you can check out it's history at <http://www.carfax.com/> All you need is the car's VIN(vehicle identity number) and you can find out if the car has been a lemon or not.

Good luck, I hope you find a good car.