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The Perigord truffle, usually grown in France and Spain, is one of the most prized delicacies in the world. Small and black with a nubby surface, the truffle closely resembles an animal dropping. That resemblance is in appearance only. Truffles have an intense aroma that permeates everything around them, and that aroma and flavor have made the truffle an ingredient with an almost mythical stature in European cooking.
Since the early 1800s, truffles have been cultivated in Europe, but producing them in areas where they are not indigenous is quite difficult. The truffle grows under the ground around trees that have the fungus growing on the roots, either naturally or by inoculation. For the chemistry that produces a truffle to occur, the soil must be an exact pH, and the climate must be temperate and not too wet or too dry. If all these factors are in place, land, money and years of patience must still be invested before a truffle is produced. But the reward for successful truffle cultivation is substantial. This year, the retail price for fresh black Perigord truffles in some markets rose above $2,000 a pound.
Franklin Garland, who looks to be in his 50's and has the faintest trace of a Spanish accent from growing up in Guatemala, has all the charisma of a salesman when he's talking about truffles. "North Carolina could be to truffles what Napa is to wine," he says. I am skeptical, but when he shaves a truffle for me to taste, I want to believe. The taste is musky, nutty, powerful, earthy and full, and it almost goes to your head. There is something about a truffle that is intoxicating, as if all the mystique it carries can actually be tasted. I have tasted truffles before in cooking, and I suspect that most of the flavor in those instances came from truffle oil (oil that has been infused with truffles). But I have never before had fresh truffle alone and uncooked. The intensity makes me giddy. More at: http://indyweek.com/durham/2004-03-17/dish2.html
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