Cornell barbecued chicken gets presidential seal of approval at State Fair
President Bill Clinton sits with Cornell Professor Bob Baker, left, at the New York State Fair in Geddes, N.Y., Monday, Aug. 30, during a stop there. With them is Hillary Clinton, Baker's daughter Reenie Sandsted, Chelsea Clinton and other Baker family members at Bakers' Chicken Coop. Michael Okoniewski/Special to the Chronicle
By Blaine P. Friedlander Jr.
SYRACUSE, N.Y. -- The most influential leader on the planet got a real taste of New York this week.
Vacationing in nearby Skaneateles, President Bill Clinton, first lady Hillary Rodham Clinton and their daughter, Chelsea, toured the New York State Fair Monday. There they visited the legendary Bakers' Chicken Coop eatery, specifically to savor a taste of the famous Cornell barbecued chicken. Cornell animal science Professor Robert Baker created the recipe, which has satiated fair-going and upstate palates since 1949.
Upon the first family's arrival at the barbecue stand, Reenie Sandsted, one of Baker's daughters and the manager of the stand, presented the Clintons with a basket of New York state apples. Then with a smile, the president explained he was hungry and he placed an executive order: "Those apples look good, but where's the chicken?"
Coming right up. Karen Applebee, another of Baker's daughters, assembled an order of eight Cornell barbecued chicken breasts and some unsweetened iced tea to go.
Sandsted had invited the first lady a month ago (with assistance from Stephen P. Johnson, executive director of government affairs at Cornell) to visit Bakers' Chicken Coop for some of the Cornell barbecued chicken. Sandsted was a guest at Hillary Clinton's "listening tour" stop at Cornell July 31. The first lady's office thought the visit was a splendid idea and made the arrangements -- but made Sandsted promise to keep it hush-hush. She did, not even telling her employees or siblings.
When it became apparent that President Clinton also would attend the fair, the first lady's office contacted Sandsted.
"Hillary's people called and asked if it was OK to bring Bill to the barbecue stand. 'Of course, by all means,' I told them," Sansted said.
While waiting for the presidential poultry pickup, the Clintons met with the Baker clan at a picnic table at Bakers' Chicken Coop, which this year is celebrating its 50th anniversary at the fair. The first lady, who has indicated senatorial aspirations, met informally for 20 minutes with Sandsted to discuss agricultural issues, such as finding good labor, Sandsted's idea for establishing a training minimum wage for teens, migrant worker concerns and the problems created by subsidies other countries provide for their agricultural economy.
"That's what I find so fascinating about Mrs. Clinton," said Sansted. "She truly listened to me; she is truly listening to farmers."
Chelsea Clinton, a Stanford University student, talked with Regina Robbins, Baker's eldest daughter, and Sarah Sandsted, 13, Reenie's daughter and a student at Lansing Middle School. Because Chelsea is a vegetarian, she opted not to eat the chicken but chatted about college and her dog.
Meanwhile, the president swapped stories with Baker about their mutual friends in the poultry business.
After flying into Syracuse hours earlier, the Clintons stopped to speak at the State Fair luncheon hosted by state Comptroller H. Carl McCall. When the luncheon ended, the Clintons were whisked away across the fairgrounds to the Bakers' stand.
For the first time in 88 years, a sitting president was visiting the New York State Fair, and Hillary Clinton became the first first lady ever to visit the fair. In 1903 Theodore Roosevelt came to the fair, and in 1911 William Henry Taft made a stop.
President Clinton, speaking at the McCall luncheon, quipped: "Teddy and Taft may have been here first, but I bet I've been to more state fairs. I've never met a state fair I didn't like."
And now the president has met a chicken recipe that has delighted New Yorkers for five decades. And Clinton didn't leave without rendering his position on the Cornell barbecue recipe. As he got into his car to tour the rest of the fair, the president turned to Sandsted and Baker -- and gave a big thumbs up.
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