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I haven’t surfed since November. I’ve had my board in the shop and a new business has eaten up my time. I called my local surf shop Wednesday and they said my board was ready so I paddled out yesterday morning. Surfing is difficult to learn, but what can be most demanding is the paddle out. That is when you enter the water and paddle (with your arms) your board past the “impact zone” to position yourself to catch waves.
Yesterday I went to my local beach know as El Porto, a section of the city of Manhattan Beach, hometown of the famous California Peggy. The surf was waist to shoulder high roughly 3’-5’ which does not seem like much but translates to a lot of water rushing against your direction while trying to paddle out.
After flailing until I was out of breath, I gave up and rode the inside whitewash. I thought I had been in the water for at least an hour when I threw in the towel, but it turned out I only lasted 30 minutes. Even so it felt so good to go out again.
Today I went a little farther north to Venice Beach because
A. I suck and it’s ok to suck at Venice.
B. I know where to park for free because I hate to leave time on the meters if I get tired early.
C. Very few surfers are out this time of year by the Venice beach pier.
Today I almost made it out, but got caught by a big set of waves just as I was crossing the impact zone.
It’s hard to believe how hard water can hit you if you haven’t personally experienced it. Surfers call it “taking one on the head” It feels like getting punched. The water churning and holding you under is actually the nicer part. Again I was spent and gave up trying to get “outside” and spent the next hour and a half having fun riding the inside breakers and whitewash. On a couple of occasions I could have paddle outside but the waves were bigger today, and they were what they call “walled out”. That means that the wave breaks simultaneously across it’s length , a good way to get you ass handed to you.
Before my hiatus I had built up enough stamina and muscle to get outside on most non-overhead days. It will take me a while to regain that level of conditioning but that’s ok. It’s so good to be out on the water again, and at my age it is also very good for me. Thanks to those who read this.
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