DU mechanics

[private_ryan]

the car runs fine, but sometimes it stops running when I slow down or stop (red light, traffic etc). I hear slowly choking then it stops. It starts 10 -15 seconds later if I turn the ignition key again. It happens VERY rarely but it still annoying.

Brand new battery. what can it be?

[TrogL]

1. oxygen sensor

dirty points or dirty carb

[private_ryan]

3. I had that changed less than a year ago, does it go bad that quick?

for inspection along with a tune up /new spark plugs. I put some fuel injection cleaner in the tank, hopefully that helps.

I will look at the air filter

[MissouriTeacher]

2. I'm no mechanic, but...

I had a similar problem with my car. but it only happened when my car got wet.

Turned out my spark plugs were totally burnt, so you might want to have that checked. I think a bad air filter/fuel filter can cause that to happen as well.

Since it was such a sporadic problem for me I waited so long that the spark plus ended up burning my rotor cap (?), and when it was all said and done I had to shell out about $300. :(

[Rick Myers]

4. First thing I'd do is clean the points

with an emory board. Then set the carb of FI a bit higher...

[private_ryan]

5. what points?

it's a fuel injection car in case that matter. What are the points?

thanks

[Lefty48197]

6. I are no mechanic either

Points? Carb? What the hell are you people talking about?

I wonder if it could be as simple as a vacuum leak? A bad hose connection? Or even one of the joints at the carburetor.

[Bruce McAuley]

7. OK, your car likely DOESN'T have points, BUT...

The place where the high-voltage crosses now is the distributor cap/rotor. You CAN effect change for the better by using an emery board on the prongs that stick down inside the cap. If you have a four cylinder car, you have four prongs underneath your cap. Clean lightly with emery board or fine sandpaper, AND lightly touch up the end of the rotor. You can get by for maybe 10,000 miles this way, before the gap starts to get too great, but your tune-up stuff is probably OK.
Possibly your fuel filter might be full of water which might spill over only when you step on the brake or downhill...Add some HEET to your fuel system if in a high humidity area. Replace your gas filter or take it off and blow it out and put it back in again.
Might also be a switch bad which causes the engine to idle faster or slower when you turn air-conditioning on and off. Experiment if it makes any difference if A/C is on or off.
What make of vehicle and motor/tranny?

Bruce
Edit for clarity

[MindPilot]

8. Carb? Points? Historical Vehicle plates?

The last production car with a carb was built in like 1986, and I was in high school when I last saw points. My money's on a vacumm leak.

[Eat_The_Rich]

9. First things first...

What is the make, model, engine displacement and mileage of your car?

[private_ryan]

10. olds 88 royale, 1992 make

mileage is around 100k, 3.8 engine I believe. It still has a few more good months in it. I don't feel like adding $400 month to my expenses just to look cool

[kimchi]

11. Could be the distributor, too.

I have an 88 Honda that is carbuerated (spelling is wrong, I know!) and when the same thing happened to me it was the distributor. A similar thing happened with my Chevy Nova (84, not the classic kind) and it was a diry carberator. Fuel injectors are easily clogged because the spray nozzle is so tiny. My husband has only Toyotas and the 02 sensors are always on the fritz. I know nothing about American cars, but it can only be a few things-either the car isn't getting fuel, electricity, or air. Good luck.

[dweller]

12. check

the fuel filter.
then fuel pump.

if it's been excessively wet in your area could be water in the fuel tank, and you can buy an additive to remedy that.

good luck.
dp

[Peace_2_Everyone]

13. Have you had the alternator changed lately?

If it was serviced at Ford dealership, you have GOT to suspect sabotage!


Approximately 4 months after my alternator was changed by a Blue Oval Certified Ford service center my 94 F150 began sporadically stalling at stoplights and low idle speeds. It ruined a battery before I figured out what was going on. I know from previous experiences that Ford and American law enforcement freely allow automobile sabotage to set a scam victim up for quick profit.

The set up: The Ford “technician” insisted the alternator died because a dirty battery connection overworked the alternator. He looked dumbfounded when I pointed out how clean the connectors were and the starter was spinning over normally, also with 55k miles on the truck I expected the brushes were worn out. Apparently Ford “technicians” are trained to believe in invisible corrosion that allows current to freely flow out but not into the battery.

The act of sabotage; A newly rebuild rebuilt alternator is quickly partially disassembled to allow access to the brushes. The copper connector on one of the two brushes is flexed or creased back and forth to weaken (not break) this copper brad. The road and motor vibrations will break this connection after a few hundred miles of normal driving.

The symptoms: As the copper brush brad deteriorates the alternator intermittently charges the battery. In my case the alternator warning light never came on. When the brake lights are on and the drain on the battery steals the voltage required for the ignition system and the vehicle sputters and stalls. The truck would crank, start and run with the motor revved up. The sabotaged alternator can only trickle charge the battery.

The Scam: As I understand it the “technician” will tell the victim something like, “The computer will not allow the alternator to charge.” The victim is charged for a computer replacement when all the “technician” has to do is remove the alternator, disassemble and re-crimp the copper connection on the brush. At this time he may decide to sabotage the vehicle again by flexing the other copper brad on the other brush.

I know from experience, that loosening bolt, contaminating fluids, melting electrical wiring all acceptable methods for Ford service centers to turn a quick profit! And there is nothing to stop automobile saboteurs from flexing connections or slugging tires.


Good luck