HILMAR, Merced County - For more than a decade, California water-quality enforcers have given the world's largest cheese factory a free ride, sparing the politically connected company millions of dollars in required sewage treatment and allowing it to foul local water supplies and the air of nearby neighborhoods. Every day, Hilmar Cheese Co. makes a million pounds of cheddar, Colby, mozzarella and Monterey Jack at its sprawling factory south of Turlock and dumps an average 700,000 gallons of putrid waste onto nearby land leased from company owners and supplying dairies.
And virtually every day for the past 16 years, state records show, the wastewater's volume and salinity have far exceeded limits imposed by the state's Central Valley Regional Water Quality Control Board to keep the groundwater drinkable for neighbors. The water board has recorded at least 4,000 violations against Hilmar Cheese in the past four years alone, making it one of California's most chronic offenders of clean-water laws.
Yet, for years not a single fine or injunction was issued. Instead of cracking down, the Valley water board kept raising the limit on wastewater volume at the cheese maker's request, as production kept growing. Board records show regulators agreed to increases four times in eight years - 1990 through 1997 - each time counting on company promises to cut pollution. Often the fixes did not follow. Sometimes they flopped. "This is a clear case of environmental injustice," said Rafael Maestu, who last year reviewed the state's file on Hilmar Cheese as an inspector for California's nine regional water boards. "Basically, they are above the law," Maestu said.
Only after The Bee spent three months investigating the plant's pollution did the water board take its first enforcement action, on Dec. 2."
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