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Anyone w experience in introducing beneficial insects to eradicate s mites

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mod mom Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 03:37 PM
Original message
Anyone w experience in introducing beneficial insects to eradicate s mites
My yard is ~ 1/2 acre, mainly shaded with mature trees. We are working at getting rid of grass which has never grown well due to shade. We have planted shade plantings and ground cover but has a bad problem w spider mites. We do not use chemicals on our yard (besides for environmental reason we had 2 kids and 2 dogs.) I read recently about beneficial insects:

Green lacewings larvae (aphid lions) will eat spider mites, thrips, leafhoppers, whiteflies and caterpillar eggs. This insect is normally purchased in the egg stage, and allowed to hatch out in the proximity of an insect problem.The larvae will feed for only 2 or 3 weeks before becoming adults, at which time it may become necessary to introduce additional larvae to your garden rather than relying on the reproduction habits of your adults. Lacewings are most effective when a large number of the larvae are introduced into a limited area.

and was wondering if anyone here has experience in using Green lacewing larvae. I am hesitant to introduce something which might upset the balance, on the other hand the mite problem is killing my plants. Please comment if you have experience w beneficial insects. BTW I live in central Ohio, if climate is a factor. Thank you.
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NMDemDist2 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 03:39 PM
Response to Original message
1. x-post this in Gardening and the Rural/Farm group
someone is sure to know

good luck!
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Viva_La_Revolution Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 03:40 PM
Response to Original message
2. I got rid of spider mites on my house plants by using
water with a little dishsoap in it. I had to spray them a few times, but it worked.

I wouldn't introduce anything that's not native to your area.
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Ezlivin Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 03:47 PM
Response to Reply #2
4. Safer's Soap will work as well
In fact it's marketed for that very reason.

http://harmonyfarm.com/prostores/servlet/Detail?no=706
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Benhurst Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 04:45 PM
Response to Reply #2
7. I grew up in Illinois. I would be greatly surprised if green lacewings
Edited on Mon Sep-04-06 04:46 PM by Benhurst
are not native to Ohio. We have them in North Carolina as well.

It may be a bit late in the season to introduce them, though.
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hedgehog Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 03:47 PM
Response to Original message
3. Is there something you can plant that the spider mites won't eat?
Are the plants you selected suitable for your shade? There is a difference between dry shade and wet shade. If the trees are walnuts, they may be killing your plantings as well.
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mod mom Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 04:22 PM
Response to Reply #3
5. The spider mites have low lying webs throughout the yard. Our trees
are mature 2 black walnuts (surrounded by mulch for the reason you mention) 2 white oaks, 5 sycamores, 2 honey locust, 2 maples, massive buckeye, 3 magnolias, 6 hemlocks, several pines of different varieties. We have recently added 4 dogwoods and a redbud. We replaced grass with rhododenrums, azaleas, ferns (several varieties but the original to the property do best) hostas, and various shade perennials which is surrounded by chunky pine mulch. In the deepest shade we used woodruff (which was doing fabulously until the mites over ran them) and less shady (which was all established prior to us owning the property )areas are pacysandra, euonymous, vinca and english ivy. We live across from 40 acres of woods and near a river basin. We corrected a drainage problem with a paver and pebble area (~25 X 40) which worked well and since in shade also solved the lack of light issue.

In the past I used Safer soap, but wondered if this too is adding chemicals. The properties surrounding me use lawn services with heavy chemical treatment-ie perfect looking but toxic lawns. If anything I would say our property is more damp than dry.

BTW I appreciate everyone's comments. This forum is one of the most helpful on DU. The advice I received on push mowers and soapstone wood stoves recently has worked out so well. Thank to all!
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Sadie5 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 04:39 PM
Response to Reply #5
6. Spider Mites bad this year
Every year it seems one bug is predominant over the others. For years I have used Dawn dish soap diluted with water. Use a drop in a bucket of water for shiny clean windows too.
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hedgehog Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 09:42 PM
Response to Reply #5
10. Sycamores, honey locust, buckeye and hemlocks
I love the different tree varieties. We have a lot of maples and poplars with some oaks. I'd love to have more of the other hardwoods. I've planted Redbuds ever since I saw them in spring in bloom around the court house in Lancaster, Ohio. I've seen some established redbuds around here but mine have only done so-so. I'm in upstate New York in one of the snow belts. It doesn't get as cold as Central Ohio can but our growing season is about two weeks shorter on either end.
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Arkansas Granny Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 05:04 PM
Response to Original message
8. I don't have any experience with spider mites, but I have heard
that diatomaceous earth works well to control them and many other common insect pests. It's very inexpensive and easy to use and contains no chemicals. It lacerates the skin of the insects and they die from dehydration. You should be able to find it at any store that carries lawn and garden supplies.
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NMDemDist2 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-04-06 05:12 PM
Response to Reply #8
9. or Pool Supply Stores. I used DE in my pool filter n/t
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