Christian Palestinians from Bethlehem can only hope that one Easter or Christmas they will be allowed to walk the Via Delarosa.
By Joharah Baker
It’s ironic, how for decades Palestinians and Arabs alike have sung the praises of Jerusalem, describing its golden domes, church bells and walled city and its historical alleyways that retrace the footsteps of Jesus and Prophet Mohammed’s ascension to heaven, without ever setting foot inside its borders.
For the Arabs – Muslims and Christians alike – and the Palestinians in particular, Jerusalem symbolizes much more than the aspired future capital of the Palestinian state. It is the crux of their struggle, the apex of their aspirations for liberation and the embodiment of all they hold sacred. No other city in Palestine, or the world, for that matter, can conjure up such passionate sentiments and fierce loyalty as Jerusalem among the Palestinians.
It is without a doubt, one of the most ironic – and tragic – situations of all times. Palestinian ID holders living in the Gaza Strip and West Bank, some just kilometers from Jerusalem’s celebrated walled city, will most likely never reach the Dome of the Rock to perform Friday prayers or the Church of the Holy Sepulcher for the Easter Mass. Banned by Israeli measures, which bar Palestinian ID holders from entering Jerusalem except for those few who carry an Israeli-issued entry permit, the overwhelming majority of Palestinians can only hope beyond hope that one day they might get a glimpse of the city they have so long epitomized.
Irony is a powerful tool and one Israel exploits to a tee. Imagine, a cowboy from Texas, a rocket scientist from the Ukraine or a new Jewish immigrant from Ethiopia can all enter Jerusalem unfettered, walk the aged alleys of its Old City and even visit the Aqsa Mosque compound where the magnificent gold-domed Dome of the Rock is situated. Virtual strangers to the city and its people have full rights to visit here and frolic among the aromatic smells of spices and sweets that make Jerusalem so distinct, while the city is cruelly prohibited to most Palestinians, those people who hold it dearest to their hearts.
For any Muslim, visiting the Aqsa Mosque Compound, considered the third holiest place in Islam and said to be the place where Prophet Mohammed ascended to heaven on his winged horse Buraq, is a pilgrimage of importance only second to the Haj to Mecca. Muslims from around the world make their way to Jerusalem each year to visit the site and pray in its mosques. However, Palestinians living in the West Bank Jerusalem suburb of Abu Dis or Al-Ezarriyeh can only peek at its glistening golden dome from above the gray concrete of the Apartheid Wall built around their towns, severing them from the city.
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