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NOLA is one of the few cities with a working trolley system, and you'd be cheating yourself if you didn't take a ride at some point in your trip. We took a ride down St Charles to the Garden District. We shopped a bit in the independent Garden District Bookshop where I picked up Russ Baker's excellent "Family Of Secrets" where he spills the Bu$h family secrets. Borders bought an abandoned funeral parlor on St Charles, apparently in the backyard of their CEO where from a business standpoint it would have better served the tourists if it was down by the river on Canal St in the big mall. The locals know better than to support Borders though.
We walked into a cemetary to take some pictures where some of the above ground plots were around 200 yrs old. We ran into a tour guide, and his group in there as well. After that was lunch at Cafe Rana on Magazine St, but the food didn't quite live up to their Zagat rating.
One place that did live up to their reputation for great food for the price was Thirteen on Frenchman St in the Faubourg Marigny district. If you need vegetarian food any time of the day this is where to go. It's just on the edge of the Quarter, but you should always keep an eye out for pickpockets and thieves. As we were walking, someone we passed started to follow us after eyeing up a nice Nikon camera my wife was carrying. I stepped in between them, and asked if I could help him while they ducked into an antique store.
Another day we stopped at the Aquarium of The Americas which is a good all ages activity. Next door we took in the Imax movie Hurricane On The Bayou. It featured the singer Tab Benoit, and a young fiddle prodigy named Alison. I highly recommend seeing it if you have an Imax theater in your area. You will learn how important the bayou is to slow down these storms before they hit heavily populated areas, and why we are losing them.
There is a free ferry that is just a few steps outside of the Imax that will take you across the Mississippi to Algiers point, and the Algiers district which is where you can find Mardi Gras World. That is where they make the floats in a series of large warehouses, and take a tour if you choose. Lots of history in the Algiers including former mayors homes, a voodoo house, and a former home of William S. Burroughs. You could take a stroll on top of a levee where they have a jazz walk of fame.
We skipped Snug Harbor in favor of Preservation Jazz Hall where we took in a local jazz band that excellent old standards that would take you back in time some 50 years. They were called The Tornado Blues Band, and the cover any day of the week is only $10 per person. The building is at least 100 years old.
The swamp tour we took picked us up in the Quarter, and by a shuttle bus drove us east towards Slidell across Lake Pontchartrain to the Pearl River Honey Island Nature Preserve. The bus driver did an excellent job giving us his history post Katrina where he had to relocate to Atlanta for about a year before he could move his family back. He pointed out places like where the levee broke in the 9th ward, bridges wiped out and/or new bridges being built on Lake Pontchartrain, and where he fished when a child sometimes next to an alligator.
Tourism is back, but there is so much left to rebuild in this uniquely great American city.
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