http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/clam-central-usa On my visit to the Clam Box, ReaLemon or some other equally insipid citricacid product has replaced the real thing, and the clams themselves lack the liveliness, the pop, the addictive quality of the offerings at other local spots. However, I wouldn’t pass through the area without sampling Woodman’s chowder. The broth is thin and milky, but not at all wanting in richness, and dotted through with gently cooked clams and chunks of potato with just the right balance of firmness and fallingapartness.
And then there was this:
And if you do get a sidelong glance for not dropping your r’s, so what? It’s a pittance to pay for the pleasure of putting away a plate of Farnham’s clams—their gossamerthin cornflour coating crisped to the goldenest of browns, the briny clams firm but moist inside, tasting ineffably of the shallow waterway-slashed landscape just yards beyond the edge of your picnic table. With a bottle of whatever’s on offer from the Cape Ann Brewing Company providing hoppy relief from the wait in that line of sunstroked daytrippers and relaxed, withtheprogram natives, I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.
When to Go
Most clam shacks close in November and reopen in the spring. To beat the peakseason lines, order ahead and snag your fix from the takeout window.
Where to Eat
Clam Box of Ipswich 246 High St., Ipswich; 978/3569707; clams for two $38.
Essex Seafood 143R Eastern Ave., Essex; 978/7687233; clams for two $30.
J.T. Farnham’s 88 Eastern Ave., Essex; 978/7686643; clams for two $27.
Woodman’s of Essex 121 Main St.; 978/7682559; chowder for two $3.