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...According to the Lardo website and chef owner Rick Gencarelli, “Lardo is Italian for cured fatback, a cut from the back of a pig that is kind of like bacon without the meat. We cure it ourselves and we love it. It’s creamy, a little bit salty with whispers of herbs and spice, and it melts in your mouth. From our food cart, we’ll serve it sandwiched between great crusty bread with slices of ripe local tomato and brushed on grilled ciabatta for our delicious version of garlic bread. We’ll also render it and use it to fry our exceptionally crisp hand-cut French fries.” So there you have it. Perfection is all about coating things in cured pork fatback. I’ve got a five-gallon bucket here in my apartment, and I’m spreading it on everything. EVERYTHING. Again, not your problem.
Get ready to get your pork on. Every other food writer in town is urging you to get to Lardo to taste the porchetta sandwich, but be brave and be independent, and get your hand and your mouth into agreement with a mortadella sandwich. Lardo features local products and a revolving menu based most likely on seasonal availability and the chef’s tastes, and they use “meats from Tails and Trotters and Cattaill Creek and vegetables from Simington Gardens and Viridian Farms” in their food. Pickled peppers like in a giardiniera style, grace this beautiful sandwich, as does melted provolone cheese, lettuce and the special sauce. This will look like a greasy mess, but only in the most gorgeous of ways. And you will be thankful. But that’s not the end.
Here it is: sandwiches live or die by how good the bread is. And there are lots of amazing breads, especially in a city like Portland, where food is at or near the top of a lot of people’s lists. Ciabatta is a great type of bread for sandwiches like the ones you’re gonna’ eat at Lardo, because there is a perfect intersection of two qualities. One, the bread provides the superstructure that is capable of holding the entire thing together — it’s not going to fall apart with the spread, the cheese, the oil from the peppers, etc. Second, it’s got holes in it, which absorb the spread, the oil, the cheese and the flavor. And the Fleur de Lis baked ciabatta is no slouch in this whole ensemble — it pulls a lot of weight. My jaw was sore, but that’s only because I was chewing too hard and too quickly, trying to inhale the sandwich as quickly as possible. I recommend you eat slowly, and enjoy every bite.
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