All For A Few Perfect Waves by David Rensin

[madaboutharry]

This is the story of legendary surfer Miki Dora.


Miki Dora, who died in 2002, is thought of as one of the world's greatest surfers. He surfed Malibu in the 1950's and 60's. He was one piece of work. He went on to surf in obscure places around the world at the same time as having made himself an international fugitive, sought by the FBI and Interpol.

It is a fantastic read and a beautifully written book.

If you go to Youtube and enter Miki Dora, there is some old film footage of him surfing. There is a reason he came to be called "Da Cat."

I loved every page.

[aspergris]

1. I agree

One of the highlights of my (unpaid) :) surfing career was running into Robert August in Mexico.

These guys were the pioneers.