From the Wall St. Journal
OCTOBER 14, 2008
Women Fall Head Over Heels for Shoe Makers' Arch Designs
Six-Inch Spikes Are Painfully Hot Trend; A Balancing Act That Makes Models Cry
By TERI AGINS
The Wall St. Journal
Anne Betts was sassy and confident strolling down New York's Fifth Avenue in her strappy, 5-inch platform heels. Until, that is, she stepped off a curb and fell to the ground. "I felt it immediately," says the New York ad-sales manager, referring to the pain that shot up from her just-sprained ankle. Although her doctor admonished her to give up the skyscraper shoes and imposed a 3-inch-heel maximum, Ms. Betts admits she can't resist the allure of tall shoes. "I love to dance in them," she says. While standing still, she notes, "they improve your posture."
Not so long ago, high heels were defined as 3 or 4 inches -- a footnote to give a little height and a more appealing silhouette to the wearer. But this fall, shoes have been supersized with the proliferation of 5-, 6- and even 7-inch heels and platforms. The über-heels range from $100 versions sold by Steve Madden to deluxe pairs costing between $600 and $1,500 from designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Marni, Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin. They come in an array of shapes, including spiky stilettos, tapered cones, sloping wedges and thick wooden posts. Exaggerated platforms have thick, elevated soles, as well as high heels, making for a superhero, rather than a Barbie-doll, look.
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The heels are proving treacherous to many. At Prada's spring 2009 fashion show in Milan last month, two models fell down on the runway; others stumbled as they walked in mile-high shoes designed by Miuccia Prada. "I was having a panic attack, my hands were shaking. The heels were so high," one of the models told reporters after the show. "Some of the girls were crying backstage they were so scared." But instead of rejecting the extreme heels, many women can't seem to get enough of them. Claudia Chan, a 33-year-old owner of an event-marketing business, partly blames her super high heels for back problems and a herniated disc. And yet she wears 4- or 5-inch high heels to business meetings and for most social occasions. "I look taller, my legs look longer, and I feel more slender," says the 5-foot-2-inch New Yorker. "About half of the clothes I wear only look good in high heels. There is a price to pay for beauty, and high heels is one of them," she says.
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Women's shoes with heels 3 inches or higher represented 25% of all women's fashion footwear sold at shoe retail chains for the 12 months ended August 2008 compared with 21% in 2006, according to NPD Group Inc. At the same time, moderate heels, between 1½ inches and 27/8 inches, saw their market share fall to 26% from 34% in 2006. Whether the trend has legs is yet to be seen. New York-based designer Warren Edwards, who participated in the heel hype this summer, has since backed down. "I think they have become vulgar and unwalkable," he says. "They are figments of runway imagination -- it's like, how high can they go? They've become cartoony." Stacy Lastrina, executive vice president of marketing for retailer Nine West, acknowledges that "the majority of women do not wear shoes that are so extreme." But due to all the runway exposure, the company has adapted some of the looks -- with more "walkable" styles that top out at 4½ inches.
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Women who lack attendants -- or curbside limousine service -- have found a way to zap the discomfort of today's extreme heels. They get injections of a cosmetic filler such as Restylane or Juvederm to plump up the balls of feet. These "pillows" last for six to nine months. Suzanne Levine, a New York podiatric surgeon who teaches the $500 to $1,500 procedure to other doctors, says she's been getting calls from patients, especially women over 40, who want to put the cushioning back in their feet so they can wear higher heels.
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