The Italian Christmas Eve tradition of the Feast of the Seven Fishes is one that was observed in my family. I simply cannot recall a single Christmas Eve when it wasn't. The menu and the venue changed, but not the tradition.
That changed some years ago when my mother died and my aunts (her sisters) grew increasingly frail.
The first year I orchestrated it with a new audience (our kids and their families) in a new venue (our house) the reviews were decidedly mixed. The biggest problem was the amount of food. It is simply impossible to make just a small volume and still have seven entrees and appropriate side dishes. Everyone was uncomfortably full, and the overall effect was not fun. Too much food and too little collective capacity to eat it.
The tradition allows some flexibility. It is usually held that Seven Fishes is the tradition. But the bigger notion is simply an odd number. When our crew was, for a few truly wonderful years, greater than thirty people spanning four generations, we did Nine Fishes. As the family moved away, as marriages took some of us to new in-laws for the holiday, or maybe every other year's celebration, things changed. We did Five Fishes. Once we did Three Fishes.
Here at StinkySparklyville we've done as few as three. Last year it was just Sparkly and me. We shared it with our neighbors, but did just one fish dish, an appetizer with fish in it, and a side with some fish essence.
This year we hope to go back to all Seven Fishes, but with a twist. We're going to do it for the entire week. The menu is not yet fully set, but we'll do one fish entree a night, and a fish appetizer on some nights, for five days. The audience will be different each night, too. The kids or not. Neighbors and friends. People we see a lot and some with whom we've lost touch.
I have this vision of sharing one meal with a family less fortunate, but we're not sure quite how to effect that - or even find the family. Maybe next year.
It is a truly wonderful, sustaining tradition. It is based on the core notion of a common meal and of sharing.
I have thought about this for years, ever since the people with whom I shared this as a child were gone from us. I think I may have hit on the form of the tradition that fits with the state of our family and our corner of the world.
Whatever is your holiday tradition, please accept my best wishes for you and yours and that the best of the season finds its way to you.
For those to whom it has meaning: Buon Natale!