“Once you could buy soda at the gas station instead of having it mixed in front of you at the fountain, soda wasn’t special anymore,” Mr. Reiter said.
A small group of modern soda jerks (they wear the term proudly) are trying to change that. Places like Blueplate, the Franklin Fountain in Philadelphia and the Brooklyn Farmacy & Soda Fountain are leading a revival that is bringing up-to-date culinary values — seasonal, house-made, ripe, local — to ice cream sodas, sundaes and egg creams. In the process, they have unearthed forgotten, delicious and possibly risky flavors like sassafras, phosphoric acid and teaberry, and have brought back taste combinations worthy of the most avant-garde chefs. . .
Contemporary soda fountains are trying to restore fresh ingredients, creativity and dignity to the craft. Blueplate, for instance, stocks house-made syrups, locally grown hazelnut and huckleberry shakes as well as chai-flavored soda.
“I consider myself as much of a chef as anybody else,” Peter Freeman, the founder of Brooklyn Farmacy & Soda Fountain, said last week. (His words were slightly undermined by his T-shirt, which had the word JERK emblazoned across the chest.)
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/07/06/dining/a-bid-to-restore-the-allure-of-the-soda-fountain.html?hp