Early Spring is just delightful. The plants explode and the first berries are wonderful. There are few problems.
But around now (June/July), we start having problems.
Our berry production has already dropped.
It is very humid here, and when the foliage gets too thick, fungus and mold starts becoming a problem. Any berries that actually touch the ground quickly pick up rot and mold.
The strawberry bed in the foreground
looks fantastic (mid-July), but is actually producing very few berries.
Late last Winter, to combat the mold/fungal problems, we
topped the berry plants (pruned to ground level),
removed all old plant debris, thinned the bed, and then covered with a Pine Bark mulch to hold the leaves and fruit up off the ground and prevent the plant crowns from growing densely together. That part seems to be working OK, but with the Pine Bark mulch, we have had an increase in little black slugs that eat the bottom off any berries that are laying on the pine bark.
Strawberries are also susceptible to
Black Spot fungus, same as roses (which are a close relative!) We use
Neem on our roses which works well for Black Spot, but we don't use it on the Strawberries because of the odor and taste.
So a
daily routine for the Strawberries has emerged:
*Work carefully through all the plants gently removing all leaves that are showing
Black Spot. It is a fungus and propagates through spores, so care should be taken to not touch healthy leaves after handling leaves with spores. Wait until the leaves are dry. Handling wet leaves will only spread the spores. This will slow the spread of Black Spot, but won't stop it. We though about treating the young leaves with
Neem before any fruit developed, but didn't do that this year (too busy & raining all the time).
*Thin out leaves in areas that have
crowned over. This encourages air circulation and lets sunlight into the lower levels. We haven't had good berries from areas that have gotten too thick. The berries seem to produce best around the edges of plants that border open spaces.
*Remove all yellow, dying leaves, debris, or fallen/ripe fruit daily. Over ripe/fallen berries rot quickly and spread mold and fungus. Also remove any leaves that are showing red streaks. This is another fungus. We don't compost these leaves, but remove them completely from the garden area to avoid any propagation of spores.
*Keep young fruit off the raw dirt. While working through the plants, we will loop the young berries over the stems of leaves to hold them off the ground, or pile little mounds of dry pine bark under them.
The good news is that the strawberry plants are very robust once established, and the fungal problems are limited to
above ground parts of the plants. You can cut them back to ground level, remove all the debris, and they will quickly bounce back. If our
Everbearings stop producing in July, we may top them a see if we can get another crop.
Some of the locals have told us that they haven't had much luck with the
Everbearings here, and have recommended
June Bearings. We are going to grow both for a couple of seasons and make up our own minds.
We had a swarm of Japanese Beetles last year, and they left larvae (grubs) in our soil. The larvae (3/4" white grub with a brown caterpillar mouth)love to eat Strawberries from the bottom up (the roots). They burrow through the topsoil like little moles. This wasn't devastating...lost about 15% of our plants, but it was perplexing until we figured out what the problem was. We would go to pick a strawberry, and the whole plant would come up with no roots! We have treated our beds with
Nematodes (last night) that should solve this problem, but as of now it is still continuing.
Compared to
Blueberries and Raspberries, the
Strawberries require 100X the effort.
In spite of the problems, we are
expanding the
Strawberries this year.
I love
Strawberries, and consider them well worth the effort.
We are still experimenting with different ways of growing them that may reduce the effort.
In addition to 2 more raised beds (one Everbearing and one June bearing), we have added a
pyramid, and have made some cultivated rows that we are going to plant with Strawberries when we thin our plants in July.
Watermelons are planted in the white cups in the foreground.
You can see the
Strawberry Pyramid in the left background (I had too much time on my hands this Winter and
wanted a pyramid.)
In front of the pyramid, you can see one of the
expansion raised beds where the Japanese Beetle Grubs have eaten 1/2 of the young strawberry plants.
The
commercial strawberry growers use the row method, and I think it may be a better way to decrease mold/fungal problems....better air circulation and sun exposure.
Anyway, we are going to find out.
We tilled up a lower section of the garden area this Spring, and are going to use mounds and rows for some stuff that hasn't really worked too well in the raised beds, like corn (didn't get a chance to plant this year, and its too late now), melons, and Black Eyed/Field peas. Our hill starts sloping more steeply in this area, so we had to use
landscaping logs to make terraces.
We are planning cinder block retaining walls for a Winter project.
Good Luck with your Strawberries.
I have never tasted a
store bought that could compare with our
Homegrowns.
Pet your new birds for us.
Starkraven says "Hi!"