|
It has a different zone series than the USDA, one specifically made for the western states. I always check the author's bio in any garden books to see where he or she gardens - if it's the East Coast or Midwest you have to adapt their advice to your local conditions, since "full sun" and "drought tolerant" can mean drastically different things. And if the author's from the UK just look at the pretty pictures and treat the text like a fantasy :)
One of the advantages of growing your own is getting baby vegetables, which are more tender and IMHO tastier than the ones you get at the store. I'd pick the zucchini when it's about half the length of of what you see sold. If you're getting too many zukes, remember that the blossoms are also edible!
Tomatoes are actually perennials in their region of origin, Central America; mine here in the Bay Area produce until the first frosts in late November, but that kills them. I have, though, kept pepper plants alive for up to three years outdoors.
How much you water depends a lot on exactly where you are, and what your soil is like. I have heavy clay soil, so I usually water deeply every three days, and I use a thick straw mulch.
What to grow when again depends on just where you are, since California's notorious for having lots of microclimates. I go by a guide put out specifically for my location by a local organic garden store. I've also learned over the last decade that no matter when I start my tomatoes they're not going to have any fruit to speak of until September. Rule of thumb: things that produce fruits like tomatoes, peppers, squashes, eggplants grow best in summer, and leafy crops like lettuce, kale, cabbage, brocoli and mustards do better in winter.
|