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Unless the neck is already warped, the overall tension changing over time won't alter the intonation.
Actually, the best way to do it is to slack all the strings, then cut them. Now, there is NO tension on the neck at all. Unless you leave it that way for DAYS, the neck won't change.
Putting them on, you should put all of them on while each if fairly slack. Then bring each to tension slowly. This can help to prevent the bridge saddles from slipping a little, although i highly question whether that really happens.
As to #2: The best approach is to have the first wind go OVER the string, and the second wind (and all the rest) go under the string. This binds the first winding and prevents slip. After that, one doesn't need any more than 2 or 3 more winds. (Four of five total.) Since i'm a shredder, and do LOTS of whammy bar work, and i cut the ball end of the string off, i use more winds, so if the strings slips out or breaks at the bridge, i have extra on the peg to refeed the bridge. But, that's a convenience, not a tuning advantage.
Lastly, i don't care for the locking tuners. They work but i find them inconvenient if one needs to tweak a string while playing. Instead of just grabbing the machine and tweaking it, you have to unlock, tweak, and lock. And, i haven't noticed that they keep the guitar in tune any better. The amount of string slip on the peg is VERY small compared to the stretching of the main part of the string.
Hope that helps. The Professor
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