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Lots of questions on this topic.
Here are some thoughts and musings. If anyone has any direct experience, please chime in.
First ..... it can and is done ... pretty often. But ... and its a big 'but'. You can't do it on post formed laminate counters. Post formed are the ones with the rounded front edge and the rounded joint between the surface and the integral backsplash ....... unless .....
Unless you put a thin sheet of cement board over the laminate. Cement backer comes in 1/4 thickness and this would allow a build-up that can bridge the counter filet at the surface/backsplash joint. You then have to add it to the nose and backfill the void around the counter nose with mortar. In essence, you're squaring everything so as to accept the tile (which, last time I looked, is unbendable!).
What all this creates is a surface that is pretty much identical to what you'd have if you were starting from scratch.
So why not start from scratch???? The **only** cost savings to this method is the cost of a sheet or three of plywood. More on this later.
On a straight, square-edged counter, you can just rough up the laminate and lay on the mortar and then the tile. that's pretty easy and pretty straightforward. And often successful. But again ..... the **only** savings is a few sheets of plywood and a few sheets of 1/4 backer board.
In all cases of tiling over laminate, here's the real issue ...... the laminate's substrate. 99 times out of 100 it is particle board. And no tile manufacturer on earth will recommend that as a base for tile. Not one. Why? Because if the grout ever fails, that stuff will swell up like a thumb hit by a hammer and the tie will literally pop off. Once that stuff swells, by the way, there is no way at all to get it flat again. The only fix is to replace it.
So now we come back to replacing a laminate counter with tile. I would strongly advise anyone to simply remove the laminate counter, replace it with plywood, top the plywood with backer board and give that (new, expensive, labor-intensive) tile a solid and proper base. It would be seriously bad news if, after doing all it takes to install a tile counter, it failed ina year or three.
So why would anyone consider tiling over laminate? I can only come up with two reasons. The first is the (inaccurate) impression that it will save money. Again, all it saves is the cost of the plywood and the backer board. That is mere pennies as compared to the serious cost of money for the tile and the grout and the even more serious time investment in doing the work. Tiling over laminate, in my opinion, is a true false economy. And if it fails ... well ...... how would you feel then?
The second possible reason to consider it is fear of removing the counter ... simply not knowing how to do it.
The fact is ..... it is easy as can be. The counter is screwed to the base cabinet from below. At the top of each base cabinet, in the corners, is a wooden web. Holes are drilled there, screws go through the holes and up into the underside of the counter. Take a trip to Home Depot and look at the their installed cabinets. You'll see the web I'm talking about. In higher priced cabinets, the web may actually be a strip of wood running front to back at the top inside of the sides. Either was, that's what holds the counter on. Remove the screws and the counter comes right up.
The sink also needs to be removed, but it would even if you just tile over the laminate, so there's no difference there.
Once removed, just cut the plywood to size and screw it down where the old counter was. I would suggest you build up the edges of the plywood with, say, 4" wide strips of plywood. This gives the counter the appearance of heft but saves weight and materials with no meaningful loss of strength. You may also want to build up the counter nose so as to accept a bullnose tile. Just be careful that you don't build it up so thick (some of the new thickness is below the counter) that you can't open the drawers!
Once installed, make the cutout for the sink and tile right up to it. Tile the whole counter and then put everything back.
Honestly, as I see it, doing the job right is little more work or cost than trying to shortcut it. I'd do the job right. After all, its ***your*** kitchen!
Now a bit about tiles ..... be careful that you don't choose wall tile for use on the counter. The difference is in how they're glazed and how they're fired. Wall tiles are the weakest and just won't last in service on a counter top. There may not even be a cost difference, depending on what you choose. Ask your tile guy (a pro .... not the Home Depot guy) what to use. Or more importantly, what **not** to use.
Please feel free to weigh in with your own views. I am not a pro. Just a fairly handy homeowner who's been there and done that.
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