ok we are getting down to crunch time, how hard is it to cut formica

[NMDemDist2]

counters?

I'm thinking we can buy two counter pieces with the 45 degree cuts already done and slap them in

Mr K is concerned about cutting out the sink and connecting the counters

can I get some feedback on how tough it is to work with pre formed laminate counters? as most of you know my kitchen is U shaped

[eleny]

1. I wish I could help with some technical tips

I would be concerned about doing it myself, too. Hubby and I removed and recovered the laminate from a countertop many years ago. We cut out the sink area and pasted it onto the wood. It ended up with a small flaw but was good enough for the cottage kitchen and lasted for 24 years.

How about measuring really good and having the store cut it for you? Maybe it's worth the extra $ to get a perfect cut. At best, I think it would take the right blade and a new one to get a good cut. Good luck with this - You two are such troopers!

[wildeyed]

2. We have stripped, then recovered existing laminate countertops,

but in a bathroom, so no 45 degree angles. We did laminate in our last kitchen, but we measured, ordered them premade, then picked them up and installed them ourselves. I'll ask my husband about the install process after I see him tonight and post again later.

on edit: Will you do a backsplash, too?

[NMDemDist2]

6. the ones I saw in Lowe's already had the backsplash pre formed

and they were about $150 for a 8' length

[Warpy]

3. You can get new countertops premade

Laying laminate over new work is a pain in the ass. Cutting it is best done with a router with a laminate bit. Prefab laminate countertops from a building supply place will come with the sink cut out.

Since it's such a large counter, it may take more than the two of you to wrestle it into place. Check and see whether or not you can get the old one out, first.

The countertop looks to be in good condition. Why replace it?

[NMDemDist2]

5. it's already in three pieces with 45 angles at the corners

and i'm looking at replacing it to sell the house it's damaged under the tile next to the sink

[Warpy]

8. I can tell you what I did.

I just went to a megastore and picked out my color and edge. They sent a guy out to take measurements (they never trust homeowners). A week later he showed up with the new countertop, crowbarred the old one out of the way, removed the sink, put in the new counter, reconnected the sink, and hauled the old stuff to the dump.

It wasn't even that expensive, as I recall, but it's a pretty short counter, sink and all. It arrived precut and I requested the cutout, which is now protecting the top of a butcher block cart, a perfect size for it. My mother used a sink cutout as a cutting board for years, which is probably why all the knives in that kitchen were too dull to cut lettuce.

I've also built counters and cut and glued Formica down on them. That was a total mess with incredibly toxic glue. Never again. All edges had to be cut with a router with laminate bit, which was the easiest part of the whole job.

[NMDemDist2]

9. that would be great, wonder what it would cost? I really think the counter

as it is will really hurt when selling BUT will it hurt enough to justify spending $500 on new counters?

[Warpy]

11. You can always do the oldest trick in the book

and cover the dings with a trivet or cutting board, but be sure to disclose them in the sales contract. You may also give a partial counter replacement allowance to the buyer as an option, allowing the buyer the freedom to put in whatever countertops s/he chooses.

Definintely price the installation. When I did, the reduced PIA factor was well worth the price differential.

[Kingshakabobo]

4. The sink is a no-brainer since the "lip" will hide any chips.

The 45 degree angles should be ok since they will be factory cuts. You will need to apply a little glue and fasten them together using the factory provided hardware. IIRC, it's some sort of "turn-buckle" type screw system.

The only tricky part will be the end cuts by the stove and the right side of the "L". IIRC, we placed the work "up-side down" and covered the cut area with duct tape to minimize splinters. Placing the work up-side down minimizes chips because saw blades cut up and exit at the top where chips are more likely.

The store will sell "caps" you can glue on once the cuts are made.


This is a job for Hubs2sparkly. Set light to the HUBS signal.

[NMDemDist2]

14. thanks King

my DH is pretty resistant to doing this and I don't blame him. installing that sink once was bad enough.....

[Stinky The Clown]

7. There are several possible cuts to be made, each a bit different

Do you need to cut any counter sections to length? That's the hardest cut to make on post formed counters (the kind you get from Home Depot or Lowes and already has the backsplash attached and often have rounded edges). The ones in your kitchen appear to be this type. Cutting to length is best done on a table saw with a good, sharp, carbide toothed blade. Pay the few extra bucks, measure very carefully, and have the lumber yard do that cut for you.

Then there are mitre cuts. Fortunately, with premade counters, you won't have to do them.

The last cut is for the sink. And that's the easiest. I'm sure you'll be reusing your 'new' cast iron sink. Remove it from the old counter and measure the hole carefully. Copy those measurements to the new counter. Lay some blue painters tape or masking tape over the line of the cut and then re-mark the cut lines. The tape will help prevent chipping of the laminate. A little chipping or a slightly 'off' cut is likely not to be catastrophic, as the sink will cover the raw edge of the cut.

When you're ready to make the cut, use a sabre saw or a skill saw.

Skill saw:


Sabre saw:


The method differs, depending on the saw you use. The sabre saw is the most forgiving, but the skill saw gives the better result.

Let's assume you'll use the sabre saw. Drill a hole inside the cut line (in that portion of the counter that will be the scrap, where the sink will be). Locate the hole near the cut line, but on the inside of it and make the hole big enough for the saw blade to fit into it. Put the blade into the hole and start cutting. When you get to corners, you can either try to cut them to a tight radius, back the saw up a bit and cut diagonally (you'll remove the uncut section later) or you can drill a new hole and repeat the process for each side. If you do the diagonal cut, you can go back from the opposite direction after you get the rest of that cut done. Or you can start by drilling one hole right at each corner and avoid all the corner cutting headaches entirely.

Be careful about the scrap dropping out. You can have a helper hold the piece and catch it before it drops. A one-person method is to screw a board to the top of the scrap. The board should be long enough to bridge the entire sink cutout. The board will hold the scrap and stop it from falling. If you do this, cut two parallel sides, screw the board to cross the cuts, and then do the remaining two parallel cuts.

If you use the skill saw, you start the cut by doing what's called a 'plunge cut'. You set the front of the saw's shoe (sole, bottom) on the counter. Line up the blade with the cut. The blade guard has a small tab at the bottom rear. Use this to move the blade guard clear. Start the saw and slowly lower the blade into the cut. It will cut as you lower it until it is flat on the counter. Then just push it to the end of the cut.

Note that a circular saw, unlike a skill saw, will **not** cut all the way into the corner. The top of the cut will get to the corner, but, given the blade's radius, the bottom of the cut will be a bit short. This actually works to your advantage here as the uncut section will hold the scrap in place. Make cuts on the two parallel sides, screw the safety board in place and then do the last two cuts. Even though the uncut sections should hold the scrap and prevent it falling, use the board too, just for safety.

Finish the cuts with a hand saw or ... tada .... a sabre saw.

It is actually easiest to do this cutting with the countertop in place. Just be careful that the falling scrap doesn't damage the floors of your cabinets.

Good luck!

[NMDemDist2]

13. once again, your knowledge is priceless

I may just take Warpy's advice and either pony up or give an allowance to the new buyers

[sbj405]

10. Did it last week.

It's fairly easy. We just used a jigsaw. Be sure and use masking tape to avoid the laminate splintering. We didn't need to do any angled cuts, I believe that they have preformed pieces that may work for the angles.

[NMDemDist2]

12. thanks sbj

nice to hear from someone who has such recent experience

[politicat]

15. Give a cash rebate.

Disclose the damage and give 50-75% of the price of new formica as a rebate. (That should be about $400, if I eyeballed your footage right.) You've done so much other work and this is actually a bigger personal decision than even AC or Swamp.

Rebate means if the buyers want granite or corian or butcher block, they can do granite or corian or butcher block. If they'd rather have the cash to spend on a piece of art or a light fixture or their SRP bill, they have that, too.

When I bought this place, the previous owner gave me a $500 carpet replacement bonus. The carpet was a sadly faded emerald (it was pretty where the sun hadn't killed it). I lived with it for a couple of years because I desperately needed that $500 to put some furniture in the house.

Neat and clean and spacious can be more important than perfect repair.

Also, borrow (or, if you do audiobooks, I can send you my copy) Freakonomics, by Steven J. Levitt and Stephen Dubner, and read Chapter 2: How Is the Ku Klux Klan Like a Group of Real-Estate Agents? (http://www.freakonomics.com/ch2.php - excerpt) It's a really useful chapter for anyone about to buy or sell a house. (The whole book is great, but Chapter Two is very useful.)