I already had a roll of brown paper from Home Depot (paint and supplies section), it cost $10. I tore and tore and tore. As I tore, I separated the pieces with a straight edge (paper selvedge) from the pieces with all-torn edges - keeping them in separate garbage bags.
After I tore a bunch of paper (I had four bags stuffed), I roughly wadded and wrinkled the paper inside the bags. Some pieces were wrinkled, others remained smooth.
We had already torn the carpet out of our living room and cleaned the concrete. All I did to prep was sweep and then vaccuum before starting to glue the paper down.
Using water-based polyurethane and a roller, I:
1) rolled some poly onto the concrete
2) put a piece (or three) onto the wet poly
3) rolled some more poly onto the paper
4) flipped the paper over and rolled it with poly again
5) smoothed out any air bubbles from under the paper with my hands (I wore disposable gloves)
I started at the edges and worked my way in, working slowly from one side of the room to the other (finishing in a doorway, I didn't want to glue myself into a corner).
After you've covered your entire area, then you'll have to apply as many topcoats of poly as you can stand. We only did 3-4 coats, but I wish we had the time and the poly to do 7-8 coats
LESSONS LEARNED....
Try to do this in one day. I did this room in five sections over the course of 5-6 days. The outdoor humidity varied each time, and I can see the difference in different sections. It seemed to have an effect on how much poly the paper would absorb. Some areas came out darker, and some came out lighter.
If you're working with a partner, make sure you're both using the same methods of glueing the paper down. My husband did a section, and he used all BIG pieces of paper, with a much more generous helping of poly than I had been using. His section looks different from the one I had been working on. This variation doesn't bother us. It looks natural, but others may want more consistency in their results.
Buy your poly by the five gallon bucket. Otherwise you'll run out - again, and again, and again.
I'll consider using oil-based poly for the topcoats if I ever try this again.
TEAR BIG. The smaller your pieces of paper, the greater the number of pieces you'll have to glue down. Bigger pieces means less handling, less labor.
Dispose of your gloves frequently and don new ones. Otherwise, they will shed flakes of dried poly into the wet poly as you're working. AGH.
You do not have to wrinkle the paper in order to glue it down and have it look very nice. But if you do, it will absorb more poly in the creases, resulting in a streakier, marbled affect.
You may miss a spot here or there. Just go ahead and glue down another piece of paper, but use a roller. I used a paint brush for all my patches, and the bristles on the brush actually roughed up the surface of the paper - resulting in a patch that looks darker than the rest.
I looked at these websites for tips and courage....
http://rubyglen.com/crafts/leatherfloor.htmhttp://my.enom.com/9711/page99.htmGoogled terms: brown paper bagging bag floor floors