installing butcher block counters

[NMDemDist2]

i see Lumber Liquidators has 8' lengths of maple butcher block for $175

it says it needs to be sanded, filled, edged and finished

i get the finished, sanded and filled part, but what about "edging"

does that mean it just needs trim on the front?

it's 1 & 1/2" x 25" x 8'

i have laminate now (in the lovely dusty rose)

what am I getting myself in for? any suggestions? this sounds like an affordable choice. my counters are currently in a "j" shape. A 8 foot length, a 10 ft length (with a sink cutout) and a small (12") freestanding on the other end of the stove

i'm thinking I can do it with an 8' and a 12' run

[Longhorn]

1. Something else my husband wanted me to be sure to tell you. . .

when you buy the butcher block unfinished, you have to finish ALL sides and edges -- top and underneath -- so that it does not swell underneath.

As far as edging, you can just sand the edge smooth or if it's wide enough, you can cut an edge into the wood using a router or a shaper. Or you can buy mouldings that you glue and nail in place.

He thinks that's a good price, by the way. Have fun! :hi:

[Stinky The Clown]

2. Right on the money!

Yup, finish all sides. Best to use the same finish all around.

As to edging ..... that's as much an aesthetic issue as anything. Personally, I prefer a plain old square edge. Clean and functional. Just "break" the sharp corners with sandpaper before finishing.

[NMDemDist2]

3. thanks, ask him about the corner please

does the grain all have to run the same way? or can I do a diagonal cut in the corner to butt the two edges?

this is the one thing I'm concerned about

[Longhorn]

4. He says butt the two edges in the corners.

You'll just have to decide which way looks best as far as which length to take to the wall. :D

[NMDemDist2]

5. so the grain does need to go in one direction then?

if that's the case, i'll have three different pieces to join down the short wall

did i misunderstand?

[Longhorn]

6. If I'm understanding your question correctly

the grains should run parallel with the walls or base cabinets so in the corners, the grains will be perpendicular to each other, assuming the cabinets are perpendicular.

I looked up the pictures of your kitchen. Does your stove butt right up to the counter with the sink or is there a return there? Also, why is there a gap between the cabinet next to the frig and the other cabinet? Is that a moveable cabinet?

If you could post those photos again here, I can show them to Mr. Longhorn and ask him how he would lay it out. I have my opinion but I'm not the cabinetmaker! ;)

[NMDemDist2]

7. that's what I was hoping. next to the stove is just a flashing I will

remove so that there is no return and go with one run along the sink wall. (I'll save the return to cover on the other side when I move the stove over)



the cabinet in this pic will be replaced with a different cabinet to get rid of the "jog" and give me a recycle/garbage bin. I am concerned about the joint under the mixer. any input would be really appreciated

[Longhorn]

8. Okay, here's Mr. Longhorn's opinion.

He thinks if you can get the length, you should go wall-to-wall on the sink cabinet.

If not, he thinks you should go from the left of the stove to the wall (with the stove in between, of course,) then from the butted joint to the next wall, and then from that butted joint to the refrigerator. If you do it the second way, you wouldn't have to move that little return next to the stove unless you want to. Be sure that if you move the stove to the right, you can still open and close the oven door.

Let me know if you have any questions. He's happy to help! :D

[NMDemDist2]

9. that little 1/2" is for clearance for sure.... my main concern is how do

we do the joint? is it as easy as gluing it and clamping it? a silicone sealer? caulk?? this is where my DIY spirit is getting dampened

thanks so much and happy Easter to you both

[Longhorn]

10. Since all sides, including the edges, will be finished,

glue won't work because it won't be absorbed into the wood. So Mr. L suggests using acrylic latex caulk. It comes in many colors and you will be able to wipe off the excess with a water-dampened sponge or cloth. You use a caulk gun and you can use this to caulk against the wall and against the splash, once it is installed.

Happy Easter to you, too! :D