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Edited on Mon Feb-21-05 07:42 PM by XemaSab
It's an interesting experience. Had my life Chachalacas, Pauraques, Ferruginous Pygmy Owls, and Rose Throated Becard (!!!) there.
They've totally closed it to vehicular traffic, except for a tram that runs infrequently. I don't remember the exact hours, but it's something like 9-4, which is too late in the morning and too early in the evening.
They have bicycle rentals for getting around. You can still camp, but you have to ride the tram, walk or bike in with your stuff, and the camping area is a WAYS in (but in practice you can camp wherever you want...the place is EMPTY after dark--I was there with 4 other people at the maximum, and I think that's not atypical). Also, the camping area is nowhere near the bathrooms, which makes finding water after dark a hassle. I got lost and wandered around the old trailer loops for what felt like hours in the middle of the night. You also have to leave your car outside, which gave me the creepies... do I bring everything that might get stolen, or do I stay lazy and hope for the best?
The World Birding Center was sort of a work-in-progress. Nobody working there seemed to bird, which was disturbing. Even the little old ladies at Santa Ana seemed better informed (one of the LOL's at Santa Ana had me my life Groove Billed Ani right outside the visitor center--never misunderestimate biddy birders!). Bentsen didn't have a checklist of the birds, which I thought was pretty surprising. Nobody really seemed to know much, and even simple questions such as "Where do I go to get Hook Billed Kite?" seemed to baffle them. The maps of the site aren't clear at all, especially for a first-timer.
The birding isn't bad at all, but it's a LOT of walking, especially carrying a scope and camping gear. All the walking is sort of a hassle, and I truly felt for oldsters and the disabled. All the other places, like Frontera and Santa Ana are small enough that you don't feel like you're spending more time walking than birding. (I know Santa Ana's huge, but there's epic birding 5 minutes in).
Talking with people down there, they all either seemed convinced that the park had been ruined or saved by the vehicle closure. There are lots of state parks in Texas that have been taken over by snowbird trailers, where the park is just basically a big RV park for people staying there all winter. Goose Island, outside Rockport, is an example of this. It sounds like that's how Bentsen was. Birding in an RV park sucks.
On the positive side, the park is very quiet (especially at night), and almost everyone inside the park is a birder (staff excepted). There's a lot of work that needs to be done, like depaving the trailer loop. It seems like a middle-way could prevail, like there could be a provision for older or disabled birders to bring their cars in. I guess it's a slippery slope though, and it's frankly nice having the place as "birders-only" as a public park can be. It feels very safe, even though there are few people.
It would be better if the tram ran more often, and if the staffers were birders--even newbie birders. I think that would go a long way.
On edit: Frontera and Santa Ana were OFF THE HOOK. Had the White-Throateds, Crimson-Collared Grosbeaks, and Trogon at Frontera, and Santa Ana--wow! Blue Bunting, GB Ani, hordes of Clay-Colored Robins, Green Kingfisher, Kiskadees, all that good stuff....
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