Sputtering(Bad!) and backfiring.(Please help)

[tekisui]

I have a 1990 Ford Ranger. It started acting up a couple of weeks ago. The tachometer quit working and it would sputter and jump down the road. I replace the ignition module. I changed the fuel filter. It is worse than ever, now. If I press the gas slowly, I can get the RPMs up to 4000. But, if I press the gs pedal quickly, it loses all power and almost dies. I can drive it in first gear only, at about 15-20mph. Anything else kills it.

Do you think it is a fuel problem or a timing problem?

And, how much is reasonable to replace the timing belt?

[Inchworm]

1. Did you ever get an answer Tekisui?

I'm having a similar problem and was wondering how you faired.

My car initially did that (the car is rigged to the hilt). I disconnected the Mass Air Flow Sensor and it ran perfectly until other things started re-creating the sputter.

I replaced ignition module AND coilpack, wires and plugs. This semi-slowed down the problem, but I too am running out of ideas. I changed fuel filter in case it is a fuel issue.

When I changed fuel filter I noticed black crap coming out. I have been told this may be fragments of the diaphragm in the fuel pump... aNOTHer $100 remove and replace suggestion that may or may not fix the problem.

The car runs fine going down the road. The stalls happen when I stop at the first red light or turn. It chugs, then dies. 1-3 minutes later it starts right up. I've noticed if I ease on the gas when taking off the stalls are less frequent.

:banghead:

[Gold Metal Flake]

2. Have either of you guys checked the codes?

If so, what codes were reported?

[SteveM]

6. Late answer. Fords, Mazdas & others use an air intake system...

which can carbon-up badly around the big flap valve. While some mechanics do not recommend using harsh carburetor cleaner, gently scrubbing this carbon away using cleaner may cause the dying to improve (problem should only occur at or near idle speed -- which can occur on turns). At any rate, it won't cost you anything.

Check for vacuum leaks in split vacuum lines, detached & loose lines, etc. These can cause "backfires" which occur in the "front" of the engine, as in muffled "Poop-poops" with the whole car staggering and hesitating.

By all means, have the codes checked; pay for this if you have to.

I doubt there is an IGNITION timing problem. This is set at the factory, and one should not fiddle with it by loosening the hold-down bolt on the distributor and moving the unit one way or another. Adjustment can ONLY be made using a timing light and following owner's manual procedure. If you haven't fooled with the ignition timing, DON'T.

The timing belt references VALVE timing and not ignition timing. If it has failed or jumped timing, the result will likely be a damaged engine (bent valve), which in any case will not re-start. Replace this belt at recommend intervals; otherwise, there is NO adjustment to it.

Good luck.

[ConcernedCanuk]

3. I would replace the pick-up coil in the distributor

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I had a similar problem with an older vehicle, replaced the control module(no change) coil(no change) and other parts - -

After almost a year of living with poor starting and performance, THEN I changed the $30.00 pick-up coil

Problem solved.

[Tab]

4. Backfire usually indicates timing

I'd start with that. Doesn't mean you need a new belt, just the current one adjusted.

[madokie]

5. I was going to give a reply then I seen that this is an old thread

so I'll ask a question instead. What did you find out the problem was?