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Inexpensive "Home Made" Saddle Bags that "Look Factory".

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bvar22 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-12-05 09:03 PM
Original message
Inexpensive "Home Made" Saddle Bags that "Look Factory".
Edited on Mon Sep-12-05 09:42 PM by bvar22
Last week, I went shopping for a waterproof, sturdy Saddle Bag that would be appropriate for carrying my laptop computer.
I choked on the prices being asked at my local bike shop ($65 - $200+).
I thought that there MUST be a better way.

I had a waterproof shoulder bag that I have used to carry my notebook (among other things).
It is actually a soft sided briefcase that I bought last year for under $10.
Modifying it for bicycle mounting was fairly easy.


The above is very securely mounted, and takes less than 5 seconds to hang or remove.



I used the following material.

1- 4'X2"X1/4" strip of Red Oak purchased at Menards for $2.30

2- 100lb. picture hanging hooks $1.59

2- "EYE" screws .79

1-"small" bungee cord (the ends fit through the eyes in the "eye screws) probably less than $1.00

Fast setting Epoxy glue in syringe mixer $2.50?




The following method should work for anything you might want to hang on the back of your bicycle.

STEP ONE
Carefully measure and cut the 2" X 1/4" OAK strip to fit inside the top of the bag.
This strip should extend from seam to seam horizontally and be as close to the top seam as possible.

Use OAK for durability, stiffness, and security.
(A 2" wide strip of aluminum could be used here, but I chose wood so that no nuts or screw ends would protrude inside the bag.)

Mix the quick setting epoxy. Using liberal amounts, glue this strip inside the bag. Use a flat surface, and apply pressure to ensure good, even adhesion.
A good bond is necessary here. This element will be supporting the weight of whatever is in the bag.






STEP TWO
Cut another strip of OAK identical in length to the first strip now glued inside the bag.
Place this strip on the outside matching the placement of the strip on the inside.
Do NOT glue this strip. It is unnecessary, and you may want to remove it later.
Carefully pre drill screw holes slightly smaller in diameter than the screw size. Make sure the screws won't protrude into the inside of the bag (in this case, use screws3/8' long, or 1/2" long with a washer).

Ideally, you should have this material pre cut and ready to use as soon as the epoxy has set enough to hold the first strip inside the bag.
Drill the screw holes, and screw down before the epoxy has fully set up.
Screwing down the outside piece before the epoxy is "hard" will ensure a better bond.



Next, after eyeballing your bike, mount your hooks in a position that fits your rack, and allows clearance for your heels when pedaling. (I had to move mine back after the first road test for "heel clearance".


I used 100Lb. picture hanging hooks (available at every hardware) that were modified by grinding off the top 1/2 of the hooks (the part that "nails" into the wall).
I searched Menards and the local hardware for a "self closing" hook something like a caribiner that would screw into a flat surface and fit a 1/4" rod, but didn't have much success.
I am not really happy with the picture hanging hooks, but they work well. They are very strong and unlikely to "unbend". I had to get tough with the vice grips and a hammer to close them up just a little (which was unnecessary).
I am still looking for something that "self closes", screws to a flat surface, and won't possibly snag clothing if I remove the bag from the bike and carry it over my shoulder.
Any good ideas?



STEP FOUR

Hang the bag on your bike. Using your best eyeball ruler, decide where you want to place the bottom mount.
This method uses a small bungee cord to hold down the bottom of the bag, and to put tension on the top mount so that the bag doesn't bounce off over bumps.


You will want at least 2" vertical distance above the place where you will be attaching the bottom bungee to the bike.
This will allow for adjustment of the bungee for proper tension.
After determining the proper spot for the bottom mount, follow the above procedure for gluing the inside OAK strip, and screwing down the outside strip.

In this case, I was using a soft briefcase that had an inside pocket.
I had to glue the bottom interior OAK strip inside the pocket, so I was forced to use a strip that fit inside this pocket.
I would have preferred to use a longer strip the runs from seam to seam, but the shorter bottom strip works OK.
A longer seam to seam strip would add stiffness to the bag.
The eye screws must be large enough so that the hook ends of the small bungee will pass through the eye.
If I can think of a better way, I would like to use a smaller eye.
The stem of the eye screw is 5/8" long, so to avoid having the sharp end of the screw protruding into the bag,
I glued two of the 1/4" strips together to provide the necessary depth protection (plus the 1/4" outside strip gives 3/4").


STEP FIVE
Pre Drill your holes and screw in the eye screws.
Thread the bungee through the eyes.
Attach your bag bottom first, then stretch the bungees and slip the top hooks over the rail.

You may get it right the first time.
I had to relocate one eye and my top hooks to get everything to hang straight and get the necessary heel clearance.

Another EYE screw and small lock can be added to the top strip for extra security.

I am painting the exterior wood strips flat black so they won't be noticeable.

This project was so easy and inexpensive, I now have more plans.
I will be looking for the raw material for these at garage sales, thrift stores, and discount houses:

*a larger capacity waterproof duffel with a detachable waterproof top. It will probably have an interior sheet of thin wood backing on the mounting side and a hard bottom.

*a hard camera case with tripod attachment

*a small wicker picnic basket?

* a hard briefcase?

Any good ideas?
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LeftyMom Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-12-05 09:13 PM
Response to Original message
1. Ooh, thanks for posting this
I love a good DIY project and this way I can make sure to have bags that stay clear of where my trailer connects.

Any guesses on weight limits for this setup? My concern would be tearing at the mounting hardware, sewing an extra layer of material in or putting gromets in might prevent any issues with that.
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bvar22 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-12-05 09:37 PM
Response to Reply #1
2. Those are good ideas.
Anything sewn in or bonded across the top that would spread the stress would strengthen the bag. Vertical reinforcement on the back side would be a good idea. Old military belts sewn in across the bottom and up the back to the top seam would make it bulletproof. The Higest Strees Point I see would be in the material immediately below the top Oak strip.

The bag I used is made from some canvas synthetic with a rubberized interior, and seems pretty strong.

I originally planned to add vertical Oak strips connected to the two horizontals to provide more support and a hard back for my notebook. After test riding, I don't believe it is necessary.

I'm going to TEST DRIVE it for a couple of weeks with a simulated load before I trust it with my notebook.:)
If it breaks, it is easy and cheap to make another one a little stronger.
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BiggJawn Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Sep-12-05 10:53 PM
Response to Original message
3. Kitty Litter buckets can be mounted the same way
I made a set of bags from some Chinese canvas shoulder bags I got at Old Navy and mounted according to instructions I can no longer locate ("404")

Mounted them to the rack with latigo thongs and a dowel for stiffening.
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bvar22 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Sep-13-05 01:14 PM
Response to Original message
4. Just thought of a way to use much smaller EYE SCREWS!
Edited on Tue Sep-13-05 01:16 PM by bvar22
Simply cut the bungee, thread the cut ends through the small eye screws, and securely tie together in the middle.

This would allow for a finer adjustment to determine the proper tension for the bungee cords!
After the proper length has been determined, a drop of epoxy on the knot would bulletproof it!

Going to get some small eye screws!
I'll post a picture of it later!


Only downside.....
With the BIG EYES, I can completely remove the bungee cord for shoulder carrying the bag when removed from the bike.
With the little eyes, the bungee won't come out.
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bvar22 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Sep-13-05 06:45 PM
Response to Original message
5. The "finished" product


The external wood pieces have been painted black.
I may paint the hardware black.

The large eyes in the OP have been changed for small eye screws, the bungee cut and retied in the center.


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Fovea Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Sep-23-05 01:03 AM
Response to Original message
6. nice work!
I just finished a related project.




Inspired by others, such as cobbworks.

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bvar22 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Sep-25-05 09:37 PM
Response to Reply #6
7. Very cool.
How did you get the BBQ mounted on the front?
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just kidding. :+


Well done. Very clean. Lots of cargo space.
How are the rear cargo bins mounted?

Do you do bicycle campouts?
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