http://running_on_alcohol.tripod.com/id32.htmlMothers Alcohol Fuel Seminar
© The Mother Earth News, 1980
How To Adapt Your Automobile Engine For Ethyl Alcohol Use
Now that we've explained the fundamental differences between alcohol and gasoline fuels, we can get on with the actual conversion of a conventional gasoline-burning engine to alcohol use. We'll cover the three major changes (main jet, idle jet, and timing), and we'll also go on to cover some other areas that may be of interest to those who want to go further to increase the efficiency of their alcohol-burning engines.
MAINJET CHANGES
The first thing you'll have to alter is the main metering jet in your carburetor. In most carburetors, this is a threaded brass plug with a specific-sized hole drilled through the center of it. This hole is called the main jet orifice, and its diameter dictates how rich or lean the air/fuel mixture will be when the car is traveling at cruising speeds. Naturally, the smaller the hole is, the less fuel will blend with the air and the leaner the mixture will be. As the orifice is enlarged, the mixture gets richer.
Since alcohol requires a richer air/fuel ratio, it's necessary to bore out the main jet orifice when using ethanol fuel. The standard jet size in MOTHER's alcohol-powered truck was .056" ... in other words, this was the diameter of the jet orifice. In order to operate the engine successfully on alcohol fuel, it's necessary to enlarge this opening by anywhere from 20 to 40%.
Start your conversion by gathering all the tools and hardware you'll need to complete the job. A screwdriver, an assortment of end wrenches, visegrip pliers, a putty knife, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and a power drill - with bits ranging in size from a No. 51 (.067") to a No. 46 (.081") are usually all you'll need. To make your job easier, though, you might want to refer to a Motor, Chilton, or Glenn auto repair manual for exploded illustrations to guide you through the necessary carburetor disassembly and reassembly. (A second alternative would be to purchase a carburetor rebuilding kit for your make and model car ... which will not only supply you with a working diagram, but provide gaskets, seals, and other parts that may get damaged during the stripdown process.)
You may also need to purchase several main jet assemblies from your auto dealer (if the carburetor you're converting has a removable main jet), since you'll probably want to experiment with different air/fuel ratios.
In order to take the carburetor apart, you'll first have to remove its air filter housing and all its hoses, tubes, and paraphernalia from the engine. Then disconnect the throttle linkage from the engine and any choke linkage rods that aren't self-contained on the carburetor body. (If you've got a manual choke, remove its cable and tie it out of the way.)
You'll also have to unscrew the fuel line from the carburetor inlet fitting and remove any other hoses that fasten to the unit, including vacuum and other air control lines.
When the carburetor is free from all external attachments, remove it from the manifold by loosening the hold-down bolts at its base, and turn the unit upside down to drain out any gasoline that may be in the float bowl. Remove the carb's air horn (you may have to unfasten the choke stepdown linkage rod) and locate the main jet. (Some carburetors have the jet installed in a main well support, while others mount the brass fixture right in the float bowl body.)
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The above is a very long article.