In Texas, the Biggest Box Gets Mighty Fancy Trimmings
By Hank Stuever
Washington Post Staff Writer
Thursday, April 13, 2006; C01
PLANO, Tex. -- The world's first high-end Wal-Mart has grocery aisles nearly wide enough to drive a Volkswagen down... The corporation calls this high-end store on the windy prairieburbs a one-time experiment, a laboratory box store set among the beautiful box stores north of Dallas... The place was designed, Wal-Mart officials have said, to drive women wild, and at the same time appeal to men with a certain retail savvy. It is, as one executive told the press, a Wal-Mart for people who aren't much for yardwork and wouldn't dream of changing their own oil. Instead, you talk to these customers about the $18.64 bottle of EVOO. Most of the store's 200,000-plus square feet of floor are a polished, earthy-colored concrete. In some departments -- fashion, linens -- the floors are blond hardwood. We snack on rosy red sashimi at the sushi bar and surf the free Wi-Fi in the cafe...
The employees have been liberated of their blue smocks, and talk (twitchily, though) about how happy their newfound khakiness makes them. There is no Wal-Martish Muzak playing, but there are flat-panel displays suspended from the ceiling here and there, and always seem to be playing a Jack Johnson music video... There's never a wait at the registers...
In this store, Wal-Mart is working out some of its Target envy (vaguely Euro), along with a smidge of Whole Foods envy (it's in how you stack the organic vegetables), and a lot of Best Buy envy (the gizmofication of everything)... Time passes, loitering around the world's nicest, newest nowhere. The shoppers here frequently say, in the sweetest Texas drawls, "Excuse me" and "Ooops, I'm sorrrrry" when their carts are even remotely in your way. So we bump into them sort of intentionally. This might be our very favorite thing of all: the infinite politeness. They've all read their Joel Osteen. They're all living purpose-driven lives...
Joan Didion once said the only thing she missed about California was the grocery stores. Perhaps she never pushed a shopping cart in Texas, land of the designer supermarket wars, which is where the Whole Foods empire started. (Whole Foods fails these days to elicit huge thrills among Texas foodinistas; what they all want now is something called Central Market, a higher-end gourmet paradise conceived by the H.E. Butts chain in the 1990s in Austin and spread to Houston, San Antonio, Dallas, Fort Worth and, of course, Plano.) The high-end Wal-Mart claims to have 2,000 grocery items not previously available to its shoppers, most of them organic. That's a lot of different kinds of balsamic vinaigrette... And in the long, long aisle that is the wine department, there are four bottles of La Mondotte 1999 Comtes de Neipperg selling for $557.47 each...
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