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Edited on Sun Feb-05-06 05:14 AM by Jean Louise Finch
Having small bills makes it easier to do most anything. The heat and humidity is indeed a killer, especially if you hit Angkor anytime in the hottest season (which is fast approaching). During the monsoons would be amazing, as lots of the pools would fill and you'd get a whole sense of the wet tropical majesty of the place. I haven't been during the rains, but if it's anything like Thailand, it just buckets down for a few hours every day -- it's not a full day of relentless downpour.
We had a car with AC the first day, and then a tuk tuk for the other two. We were there in the coolest part of the year, so AC wasn't really necessary. We got up really, really early, hit the temples for the morning (made it for sunrise 2 of 3 days, an epic achievement for a useless morning person comme moi), then headed back to our guesthouse for a rest in the hot afternoon sun, and then went back out in the early evening through sunset. For me, 3 days was enough, as there's not a whole lot to do in Siem Reap apart from Angkor, and I was a bit templed out by the end of it. It's a pretty depressing town, as there is some just incomprehensible poverty. If you go to Phnom Penh first, I think you might be better prepared, especially if you spend some time learning about what has happened to the country in the last few decades.
The biggest temples -- namely Angkor Wat itself -- lose their splendour when you spend the whole time fighting with other tourists and the gaggles of kids selling postcards. Try and spend most of your time in the smaller, quieter ones. We didn't see the ones outside the park, though like paulk said, and I have heard from others, those are some of the best.
I don't speak a word of Khmer and had no troubles communicating and getting around. We didn't have a guide, per se, but we did have a couple of different drivers, who we had hilarious conversations with over lunch and drinks. Learned a few words by the time we left. The kids all in the park are also georgeous, funny and cheerful. They usually speak better English than the adults, and if you can convince them that you're not going to buy ALL of their folded paper flowers, they are super friendly and keen to learn more English (and teach you Khmer).
It's a pretty amazing place. I've never been anywhere like it.
Edited to add: I didn't see any snakes at all -- think it's too hot for them! And I reckon Cambodia is safer than most cities in the US, just be aware of your surroundings and don't leave your bag or camera lying around for easy access. Violent crime is pretty rare, especially amongst foreigners, but being pickpocketed or "relieved" of your stuff is definitely not uncommon.
A couple of great places to stay in Siem Reap: La Noria and the Red Piano. I can vouch for both!
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