original-emagazineLocal is the New OrganicThe Growing Movement to know your Farmer and your FoodBy
Brita BelliIt used to be that organic was enough. That organic label told consumers their food was safer, fresher and more likely to have come from a small, reliable farm than a mega-farm-factory. Then, last year, Wal-Mart started selling organic products. Suddenly, organic didn’t seem so special.
Last fall, an outbreak of E. coli bacteria in California- grown organic spinach that left three dead and hundreds sick shone the national spotlight on the question of where food comes from. Most produce people eat, organic or not, travels thousands of miles to reach the shelves of their local supermarket. The journey exacts a huge toll on the environment as refrigerated tractor-trailers packed with green tomatoes and bananas crisscross the country, burning diesel and spewing pollution and greenhouse gas. And the potential for unsanitary handling and nutrient depletion exists at every stop along the way.
According to statistics in Brian Halweil’s Eat Here: Reclaiming Homegrown Pleasures in a Global Supermarket, fruits and vegetables now travel between 1,500 and 2,500 miles from farm to market, “an increase of roughly 20 percent in the last two decades.” And that’s just the produce within the U.S. Halweil says that 898 million tons of food are shipped around the planet each year, four times the amount that was shipped in 1961.
“It’s amazing that you can buy organic food at Wal-Mart,” says Jen Maiser, the founder of the blogs Eatlocalchallenge.com and Lifebeginsat30.com. “But some of us really wanted a better handle on our food. Now organic is so corporate.” Living in the Bay Area of California with plenty of access to year-round farmer’s markets, Maiser is a self-described “locavore” (others, including vegetarian cookbook guru Deborah Madison, refer to themselves as “localtarians”). They are at the forefront of a movement that stresses eating local as a way to reconnect with one’s food.
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