http://www.salon.com/news/feature/2007/03/28/spiegel/Iraqis' highway from hell
Daily, more than 1,000 Iraqis risk being kidnapped or murdered by militias to cross into Syria as refugees.
By Ulrike Putz
March 28, 2007 | TANF, Iraq-Syria Border -- NewsShe has a few more yards to go, but Adrar Salamah is already happy. "I'm so glad to see Syria," the young mother says. Her exhausted smile betrays the anxiety that her arrival in this bleak stretch of desert is finally letting go -- it's an unease that must have developed over years. "Finally I can feel free again," she says.
For thousands of Iraqis, Tanf, the name of the border crossing between Syria and Iraq, is synonymous with peace. Those who reach Tanf have completed the hellish 340-mile journey from Baghdad and almost reached the safety of Syria. Many, like Salamah, will spend hours waiting patiently to get their passports stamped.
Up to 2 million Iraqis have fled their homes since the beginning of the war just over four years ago, most of them escaping over land. And ever since Jordan effectively closed its border at the beginning of this year, Syria has become the No. 1 destination for the refugees. Far more than 1,000 of them reach Tanf every day, "all of them exhausted and tired, with young children and elderly relatives in their car," says the border-control commander on duty.
Day after day, the refugees flock to his office. The friendly officer, who asks to remain anonymous, signs their pink visa application forms. "It doesn't really help to speed things up," he says of the formality. With thousands of people escaping from Iraq every day, processing applications takes time.
In order to manage the onslaught of refugees, applicants are required to wait outside before they're allowed to enter the building. Three officials verify and stamp the passports while one extends the documents out a window where hundreds stand waiting for their turn. Somewhere in this crowd, Salamah's driver waits for her passport and those of her son and parents.
"We've been waiting for this a long time," Salamah says. "Now we had the opportunity to leave, and we used it."
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