http://www.good.is/post/Stop-Feeding-Your-Garbage-Can/Talking to the chef of America's least wasteful restaurant
Of the 350 billion pounds of food produced in America each year, we throw away a gut-wrenching 98 billion pounds, 98 percent of which ends up in landfills. According to the EPA, landfills are the largest human-related source of methane in the United States, accounting for 34 percent of all methane emissions. Methane from landfills is generated when organic food waste decomposes under anaerobic conditions. Our rotting food is therefore a major contributor to global climate change. The retail food industry, which includes restaurants, is responsible for 54 billion pounds of this waste, and hemorrhages $44 billion a year in wasted food. Fortunately, a few chefs are working to reverse this trend.
Leading the charge against food wastefulness are chef Russ Moore and his wife Allison Hopelain, the co-owners of Camino, a restaurant in Oakland, California. They recently sat down with GOOD to discuss conservation, great food, and the steps they take to avoid wasting a single leaf of lettuce or a biodynamic drop of wine.
camino-radish
GOOD: Why is it important for you to use everything?
RUSS MOORE: Everything we use has value. Someone harvested it, someone grew it, someone cared about it. Most restaurants buy in bulk; they get these cheap standardized products. Our carrots come from a farmer and are not all the same size and shape; they take longer to work with, they require more skill and attention to cook properly. These are the best products as far as taste and flavor, but also the best in terms of the standards for how they were sustainably raised, grown, and harvested.
G: Is the recent attention to understanding the entire food process changing how you cook?
RM: I should stress
nothing is new here. This is all really old. It is classic French style; it's how you were supposed to use all of the food you had available. Using everything is a challenge and part of being a chef. It's part of what you are supposed to do.
G: What are some ways to maximize your ingredients?
RM: If I cook a vegetable in water, I'm not going to throw away that water. That vegetable has imparted great flavor, so I'll use the juices and extracts left over from, say, my artichoke water. Maybe I'm baking an egg with cardoons and mushrooms; I know that my little bit of artichoke juice from the left-over water will make sense with that egg, so I take a cazuela , add olive oil and the leftover juice, and then put the egg on top. I cook it in the fire, baking the egg from above in the air and below in the liquid.
Eggs are precious. We can't get as many of the Soul Food farm eggs in the winter so we have to use them all well. Say you need egg yokes to make a mayonnaise; most places just throw the egg whites away. We'll use the whites to make a meringue or give them to the bartenders to make frothy drinks.
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