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goddess40 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Apr-27-09 02:25 PM
Original message
anyone make rag rugs?
I'd like to try but I don't have a clue.
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pengillian101 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat May-09-09 09:28 PM
Response to Original message
1. I used to. Here's some info.
Making crocheted rags rugs are as easy as pie. The hardest part is deciding on the fabric you want to use. Used cotton fabric ripped into 1" strips and sewn (or tied) together and wound into balls will give you a wonderful funky like raw edge all over. Cut-up old t-shirts into 1" strips will give a nice edge because they don't ravel. Old-fashioned beautiful wool rag strips of cut up old skirts, etc. typically had their long raw edges sewn closed in the middle when folded into strips and the strips sewn together, so their were no raw edges. The strips were probably 3" wide, then the edges folded in to meet together, then stitched. Used clothing stores, Goodwill, Ragstock, etc. are good sources for recycling used material.

I did a google search and found lots of sites with info.

http://www.rugmakershomestead.com/introduction.html



http://crafterscommunity.com/forum/altered-treasures/14885-crochet-rag-rug-instructions.html

http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf001084.tip.html




ALTERED TREASURES Projects for recycled and altered items crafts.
Default Crochet Rag rug instructions



I know some of you have been looking for the instructions in the past!!

I also do not sew my fabric ends!! I use a different tecnique, with a couple cuts in the end and a simple slip of the fabric!! Very easy and much faster!! If you would like to learn this , just let me know!!

images/smiley_icons/1luvu.gif

Crocheted Rag Rugs

Some basic crochet knowledge is needed for this one. Round up all the cotton and cotton/poly fabrics you have. Old sheets, old clothes, fabric scraps from the sewing room. If you don't have enough, check yard sales, thrift shops, goodwill shops and ask your relatives...they'll probably be thrilled to get rid of their "rags".

The idea is to cut the fabric into strips and then sew the ends together to create balls of "yarn". Begin by cutting one fabric into 2" wide strips. I strongly recommend cutting as opposed to ripping, since ripping the fabric creates a lot of fine lint dust that can bother breathing and be downright nasty to vacuum up. Unless of course you can do this outside, but also consider that ripped pieces aren't uniform, tending to "pull" in various spots. For the sake of the finished product, cut rather than rip.

When the first fabric is cut into strips, use one of the strips (or a scrap end) to tie them together in a bundle. Put them aside and proceed the same way for each fabric. When all the fabric has been reduced to strips, take one bundle, open it and begin to sew the ends of each strip together to form a long continuous strip. The strips are joined by placing them, right sides facing, at a 90 degree angle to each other (see illus above for bias seam) and then they are sewn from corner to corner. Open it out and trim the excess fabric leaving a 1/4" seam. This method reduces any bulk and creates a smooth single piece. When the first bundle is done, place it aside and work on the next bundle.

When all the bundles have been turned into long strands of yarn, begin to roll them individually into balls. Fold the outside edges toward the center and then fold the strip in the center (like single fold bias tape). This is done at the same time you're rolling it into a ball. By rolling it into a ball, you effectively press the fabric into place by the time you get ready to actually crochet with it. Do this for each individual bundle. When you have all your balls of fabric ready, you can begin to crochet.

You will need a size J or K metal afghan hook. I've found that this is the easiest tool to crochet this project with due to the length of the handle. It allows a good firm grip and makes it easier to pull the fabric through the loops. You will also need a needle, thread and a pair of scissors. As you're working, when one ball of "yarn" is finished, join the next color by placing the ends together at a 90 degree angle as before and hand-stitching from corner to corner. Trim seam and your ready to begin with the next color.

Begin by making a chain for the foundation. For large rugs (36x24-inches and larger) begin with a 10 to 12 inch chain. For small to medium sized rugs (18" to 24" long), begin with a 6 to 8-inch chain. (Leave about a 10-inch tail of fabric and as you work, crochet over this so it's hidden). The entire rug is worked in single crochet (sc).

Skip one chain and make 3 sc in next st (one end started). Working in one loop only of foundation chain, make 1 sc in each st down one side; make 3 sc in other end and work 1 sc in each st back to the 1st sc. Rounds are not joined and it's not necessary to mark them either.

On Rnd 2, make 2 sc in each of the 3 end sc's of previous rnd on each end and 1 sc in each sc along the sides. It's safe to say you can make 2 sc in each end sc on rnds 3 and 4, but after that you have to "feel" your way along for the increases. Each fabric responds differently and the only thing to deal with is to make enough increases (evenly spaced) at each end to keep the rug lying flat and not too many so that the rug doesn't sit flat enough. As the rug increases in size try to keep from making increases directly over those of the previous row...stagger them a bit. On the final round, try to make it around without any increases...more often than not this works and makes a nice finished edge. When the rug is at the size you desire, finish off by slip stitching in the next stitch (you can do 2 of these if you like over the next 2 sts). Then use your hook to pull the tail end through some of the stitches on the back of the rug. I like to make sure about 8" of tail is securely entwined this way. Then I use a needle and thread to tack down the very last bit.

These rugs will last many years and can be machine washed. Because of their weight when wet, I suggest putting them outside to dry. I'm just now replacing rugs I made 10 years ago and only because a puppy thought they were just the thing to chew on when we were gone. I found that protest of our absence a bit much, but luckily he grew out of that phase before I lost patience. Otherwise...those rugs would still be in use.

http://crafterscommunity.com/forum/altered-treasures/14885-crochet-rag-rug-instructions.html

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pengillian101 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat May-09-09 09:38 PM
Response to Original message
2. Here's a good starting site. Have fun!
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Warpy Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu May-14-09 09:47 PM
Response to Original message
3. I have a house full of rugs I make from loom waste
Most commercial fabric looms now use air to force the weft through instead of the old shuttle setups. The selvedges are fringe arrangements and cut off before the fabric is shipped. When I dye them (they're usually ugly) and weave them into rugs, the "fuzz" ends up making a pile that feels really nice on bare tootsies.

I also make rag rugs from upholstery mill ends. I'd love to find Pendleton mill ends, but those tend to be really pricey.

Rag rugs can be made without looms, too, either knit or braided. There are small metal gadgets that you feed the rag strips into that will fold them into the proper shape to braid, then you sew the braids together from the inside out, usually making either round or oval rugs.

The same gadgets can also be used to knit rugs, although they don't work quite as well. It's best to use the gadgets to fold the strips and iron them into position as they're being folded.

Rugs can also be hooked with rags, wool rags working the best to produce durable rugs. Rug canvas is stretched on a frame and the rugs are punched through it with a manual or electric punch.

The library can be a good resource for reading about these techniques or you can order the books online from a specialty store like http://www.halcyonyarn.com

Happy exploration.
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