I'm planning to buy an open trailer for my Trike ~ I'm open to advice.

[In_The_Wind]

My Goldwing Trike is in Florida and I want it where I am. I shipped it last winter but I wasn't happy about the experience so I'm going to be taking it with me in the future.

I'll be traveling on I-95 for most of the trip.

[Robb]

1. I just bought a utility trailer and Pingel wheelchocks

I looked at rail trailers, but decided I wanted to use the trailer for maybe hauling something else someday. :)

The Pingel chocks are removable; there's a little bracket that stays in the trailer, you slide the chocks on and one screw holds 'em in. Slick deal... I went a little nuts, went out with a router (wood bottom trailer) and sunk the brackets so I wouldn't trip on them when I was loading other stuff.

Other suggestions: don't skimp on tiedowns, get good ones because heck, it's yer bike. And the bigger the rear ramp, the easier it is to load (the incline is less severe).

[Lowell]

2. I know the guy who put this together

and it is a great trailer. Simple to assemble and works fine. Check it out at


DIY Bike Trailer/Hauler



This project was begin with a three very clear goals in mind. Low cost, dual use, easily stored.

With space at a premium, I wanted a trailer that could be stored in a very compact space. -- This project trailer easily folds in thirds and can be rolled on it’s own dolly wheels into the garage where it requires a 2’ x 5’ space against one of the walls.

I wanted a reliable motorcycle trailer that could be assembled at an extremely low cost. -- This 1,175 lb. capacity folding trailer, with 12” wheels, was purchased from my local Harbor Freight showroom for $229.00 on sale (List $289.00). It is on sale right now in the catalog for $249. but the prices change frequently and this same trailer is usually offered on sale every single month. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90154 and the manual/assembly instructions are available at: http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/90000-90999/90154.pdf


The trailer is decked with a $22.00 sheet of 1/2” exterior plywood, held in place by a few dozen 3/8” carriage bolts.

I picked up the front wheel chock at my local Yamaha dealer for $17.00. Although it is really not needed, I used a couple of 2”x 4” x 8’ rails that are screwed to some scrap 3/8” plywood stock (dark finish in the photos). This allowed the entire "rail" assembly to be removed in a few minutes to allow folding and storing the trailer.

I replaced all of the stake pocket bracket bolts with 3/8” eyebolts to provide a number of tie down points for the bike or other cargo.



Including the ($19) wheeled jack in the front of the trailer A-Frame, the project cost me less then $300.



This little boy has a 20" deck height, and tracks very well and it is easily pulled by my Honda Civic which gets substantially better mileage then the Ford Explorer. Loaded with a V-Star 1100, the thing is only carrying a bit over half of it's rated capacity so the tires are in no jeopardy. I had the very same sized tires and wheels on a Coleman pop-up camper that weighed 1,279 lbs. The trailer and the V-Star don’t come anywhere near that weight.

If anyone cares for specific details I will be glad to share my construction experience.






More detail:



The 4’ x 8’ plywood deck is cut exactly in half. Each half is secured to the trailer frame. The fixed 4’ x 4’ frame up front, and the 4’ x 4’ foldable section in the rear. If you look at the right photo above, you will notice the top of one of the two hinges right near the front of the right wheel well cover.

You unbolt (4) 1/2” carriage bolts, and the entire rear section of the trailer lifts up and folds flat on the front section. It is still on it’s main wheels.

In the left photo, notice the vertical bracket with two caster wheels just to the rear of the wheel wells. When the rear half of the trailer deck is secured to the front half, you can lift the front of the trailer and stand it up on the four small rolling casters. Then all you do is pull two half inch diameter Hitch pins, and you will drop the “A” frame down against the folded trailer. The folded size is just under 5’ wide by 2’ deep and it stands about 5’ or so high. This will allow you to roll the folded trailer into it’s storage space and even fit under some overhead shelves. Pretty slick!

The track assembly was actually intended as a structural member to distribute the weight of the bike more equally across the top of the trailer instead of just under the wheels. As it turns out it is quite strong and would even serve as a ramp, but that was not my intent. The 2” x 4” x 8” spruce studs are gorilla glued (I figured you (SilverBack) would like that) and screwed to 3/8” plywood from the bottom into the studs. I just happened to have the 3/8” ply in the shop, but 1/2" or thicker would work fine as well.

The width of the assembly was dictated by the width of the wheel chock that I bought at the Yamaha dealer. After I positioned it where I wanted it, I drilled down through the assembly and the deck with 10?? 3/8” holes. I secured it to the deck with 1-1/2” long, 9/16” bolts, lock washers and flat washers. From the bottom of the deck I inserted 9/16” blind hole nuts (the one’s with the little barbs on them) with a dab of Gorilla Glue on each of the flange bases. Once they are tightened up, the barbs dig in and they become one with the deck. When the bolts are pulled, the blind hole nuts sit right there and wait until next time. The four bolts that secured the wheel chock are also 9/16” but they are 2-1/4” long.



Construction/assembly comments:



By the way, if you make one, don't use the 3/4" plywood that they recommend. I had it on there and did not like the way that the trailer folded up as there was some binding. I replaced the deck with 5/8” exterior sanded plywood and the trailer and I are both happier. Also, secure the deck with 3/8” carriage bolts, not the ½” that they specify.

The larger bolts are overkill.

If you take the plunge and buy one, I will have more to say about wiring the lights. The folded trailer takes a LOT of slack wire to make it around the fold. Their instructions underestimate the amount you need by 4”.

A socket wrench will remove the rail assembly in under 3 minutes!:


You can use any type of ramp that you desire, however I chose an aluminum 1,500 lb capacity tri-fold ramp and I ride the bike right up on to the trailer and into the chock. The ramp was also on sale at Harbor Freight for $79.00 (as it is in the on-line catalog store). Oh yes, I modified that too by adding expanded steel mesh to the center section and added 4 additional hinges as well for extra strength.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90018