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http://www.miamiherald.com/1046/story/914435.htmlThe South Beach Wine & Food Festival's $1,000-a-plate dinner for the king and queen of Spain was gliding along elegantly, with dignitaries and guests feasting on vanguard cooking by some of Spain's most important chefs and quaffing some of its best wines.
And then the master of ceremonies, superstar chef Mario Batali, royally messed with what he himself had called a historic occasion.
''All you weasel f---wads in the back corners, can I have 10 seconds of your time?'' Batali said into the microphone, impatient that the crowd wasn't quieting quickly enough for his introduction of chef José Andrés, culinary chair of the Thursday night Biltmore Hotel gala.
Jaws dropped in a glittering crowd of 400 that included Florida Gov. Charlie Crist, U.S. Sen. Mel Martinez, the mayor of Coral Gables, the U.S. ambassador to Spain and Julio Iglesias. Gloria Estefan, enjoying the evening with husband Emilio, chortled.
Batali, wearing pants rather than shorts for once but still in his signature orange Crocs, went on with his introduction of Andrés, whom he called his ``favorite chef in the world.''
He noted that Andrés' Los Angeles restaurant, The Bazaar, had just received four stars from the Los Angeles Times.
''The most motherf------ stars of any Spanish restaurant in the U.S.,'' Batali said. Those who were seated near the royal couple said the queen blanched.
The king was cooler.
''His reaction was to wolf whistle,'' said political lobbyist Ana Navarro, girlfriend of Biltmore owner Gene Prescott.
'Afterward, I went up to the king and I said, `I'm sorry about the foul language, but just so you know, is not from Miami and he's not Cuban.' And the king said, 'What foul language?' ''
After all, Juan Carlos has a bit of a bad-boy streak himself.
When Hugo Chávez repeatedly interrupted the Spanish prime minister at a 2007 summit meeting, the king blurted an angry ''Por que no te callas?''(``Why don't you shut up?'') at the Venezuelan president that made him a hero in some quarters.
HUMOR AND HORROR
Navarro said the royal couple were at ease the whole evening, though protocol quickly went out the window.
''Everybody was milling around, people were switching seats to talk to friends at other tables, they were coming up to the royal table to talk to the king,'' she said.
``Charlie Crist left before the king, which is a big breech of protocol. But everybody was enjoying the food and the wine -- some of us partook in the wine more than others -- and it was too late and too fun an evening to get really upset.''
But plenty of diners were appalled.
''I am still horrified,'' said Alejandro Muguerza, head of Miami's Le Basque catering company.
`COOL, NOT STIFF'
Muguerza helped plan the decor, secured $50,000 in sponsorship from his native Basque region and coordinated the participation of several Basque chefs.
''The king and queen are cool in that they are not stiff,'' said Muguerza, a close friend of the queen's sister. ''They haven't witnessed a thing like this probably in their entire lives,'' he said.
``Worse than what Batali said was the fact that the governor of Florida, who was seated to the left of the queen, kept getting up to schmooze. She was left alone several times. That is just not done. The people at my table, who were all from Spain, all had their mouths open.''
Batali, who is scheduled to take part in a festival dinner honoring Emeril Lagasse Saturday night, could not be reached for comment Friday.
Though known for his Italian cooking, Batali is one the world's biggest champions of modern Spanish cuisine. He and actress Gwyneth Paltrow, along with New York Times food writer Mark Bittman and Spanish actress Claudia Bassols, embarked on a foodie road trip through the country that yielded a 2008 PBS series (Spain . . . On the Road Again) and book (Spain: A Culinary Road Trip).
''Spain is the most important wine and food destination in the entire world,'' he gushed at the start of the evening.
By the end of the night, however, he was crocked, observers said, even grabbing Andrés' butt at one point and making quick, crude humping motions.
Like the king, the Spanish chef kept his cool.
''This is what food and wine from Spain will do to you,'' he told the crowd. ``It will lift your spirits.''
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